Thru-Hiking the Rota Vicentina : Odeceixe to Zambujeira do Mar

Thru-Hiking the Rota Vicentina

In the Footsteps of Others the Fisherman's Trail

As we trek the Rota Vicentina over ancient landscapes and across several Portuguese provinces, it is clear that we are doing so in the footsteps of others.  Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, Caliphates and Christians have each spent time across the Iberian Peninsula and in Portugal.  Many of the routes we trod along each day were frequented by kings, countrymen, armies, fishermen, pilgrims, and other hikers over the centuries.  This history and legacy are part of the appeal of trekking along Portugal’s coastline.  To know that vast numbers of others have been here, have struggled, and have continued on is amazing to reflect on. We are now part of this historical, doing our small part to keep the way alive.

We find these sorts of thoughts to be heartening on tough days.  The notion that we are following historical routes, experiencing natural wonders, and joining the thin thread of history fosters a wider sense of things.  However, we are also aware that we are doing things 'backwards.'  The reality is that during our time on the Rota Vicentina, we are two of only a handful of hikers heading from south to north – which makes for both a more peaceful, and a more isolating adventure.  By comparison, those southbound hikers on the Fisherman’s Trail seem to have a very Camino-like community – venturing along in a close-knit group, staying in the same hostels each night, and being able to regularly chat together.  

There are undoubtedly moments when I envy this community, and meeting new people, while there are other times I am glad that we are able to enjoy a quieter hike as we visit places we have never been.  As with all things, knowing that you are walking in the footsteps of others, and trekking alongside other people can be both a joy and a headache.  Today would show us both sides of this coin. 

Early to Rise on the Fisherman’s Trail

"...without the bad the good disappears..."

The Oh Hellos, Cold is the Night

Some nights, whether on a hiking trail or on a Camino pilgrimage, are great.  Good lodgings, good food, and good companions.  Other nights stand out for the foibles that take place.  Sean likes to say that these are the moments you vent over at the time and later can tell funny stories about.  Regardless, last night was very long … 

Arriving back at our accommodations around 9 PM, we more than recognized that for others the evening was just beginning.  Dinner was underway in many restaurants on the main square, and we knew that many people would sit on patios and in bars for hours to come.  Nowadays, the realities of a thru-hike for us mean that the day’s efforts often give way to early evenings.  Yet last night’s accommodations were apparently very close to a loud establishment that remained open until about 2 AM.  After closing – or at least concluding their evening’s raucous party – several people returned to our accommodations and began “enjoying each other’s company” loudly and vigorously for some time afterwards.   Adding to all of this, as the night progressed, a cell phone began ringing with its volume on high and its tonal alert going unanswered. 

After an hour, the persistent noise turned out to be the last straw for other hikers in the building.  With a loud scuffle of backpacks being quickly filled up, angry whispers, and the slam of first their room door and then the building’s main door, the first group of disgruntled walkers left the building around 5 AM. Shortly afterwards another group left in frustration, yelling down the hall at those who had kept everyone else awake.  This in turn set off a chain of activity that suggested that others were equally done with any attempt at sleeping.  And so, between the partygoers, squeaking beds, doors slamming, and people leaving in frustration, we too were ready to hit the trail by the time morning dawned. And so, without much sleep, we set out for the day – not a great recipe for having energy or enjoying one’s trek.

By 5:30 AM, along with seemingly a dozen other hikers, we stood in front of the residence tightening up shoe laces and backpack straps before heading off.  Given the time, it was too early for any of the cafes or bars to be open, so we sat on a bench and ate our store-bought croissants before beginning the day’s hike.  While frustrating to be setting out so early, the fact was that with the spring temperatures in southern Portugal rising each day beginning before sunrise may actually have been beneficial.  

Alentejo Portugal

Backpacks on, we navigated the quiet colourful streets of Odeceixe back to the riverway and followed the trail to a bridge spanning the rushing waters below.  En route local fieldworkers were also already out but were wearing down jackets, sweaters, and hoodies while waiting for the bus.  

Leaving the town and windmill behind us, we crossed the river via a concrete bridge and began the next stage of our hike.  Our departure from Odeceixe meant that we had left the Algarve region and entered the Alentejo Region of Portugal.  This area was settled by the Romans, who valued the land for its wheat fields, and later used the region to establish vineyards. Over the centuries the agricultural focus of the Alentejo has turned Portugal into the 8th largest olive producer in the world, as well as being home to many of the country’s cork forests.  The lands here are characterized by the guidebook as having rugged coastlines, rolling hills and vast plains.  Today the Alentejo is largely a rural region of Portugal which has only a sparse population despite comprising almost one-third of the country’s landmass.  

Across the river, we followed the country lane paralleling the end of yesterday’s walk along the river back to the coast.  This quiet meandering road was a beautiful stretch in the cool morning air.  As we walked, the sun rose up behind us and poured through the valley, lighting up the region. Around us, the fields changed colour as the dramatic light of the rising sun struck them while birds darted between the shrubs.

We soon arrived at the river delta with the fresh windswept Odeceixe beach just beyond.  Here, the Rota Vicentina climbed up the coastal cliffs, providing us with a stunning view of the Atlantic shoreline amid the morning sunrise.  Having reached the top, we watched as hikers who had presumably spent the night at one of the Praia Odeceixe resorts walked across the beach and waded across the river waters rather than hiking the 5-6 km to Odeceixe and back.  

Alentejo’s Coastline and Beaches

Trekking on, we navigated the edges of farmlands and trudged along the soft sand of Alentejo’s coastal cliffs.  According to the map, today’s hike wove us through the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina along the Atlantic shoreline, and essentially ventured from beach to beach - Odeceixe, Amalia, Machados, Carvahal, Alteirinhos to Zambujeira do Mar.  All in all, it was not a bad way to spend a few hours!

Garden snail enjoying the morning dew

From Praia de Odeceixe to Praia da Amalia we followed the increasingly wide sandy track over dunes.  Here we dealt with lots of midges and biting insects while also seeing huge Scarites cyclops beetles, sighting White Storks along the coast, and enjoying the bright pinks, oranges, and yellows of the blooming wildflowers!  However, the constant climbs and descents in the soft sand quickly became exhausting with our heavy backpacks on.  In addition, as the morning proceeded the full strength of the sun on the exposed coast quickly sapped our energy.  In fact, by the time we reached and descended down to a concrete boat launch, we were both soaked in sweat.  There the trail boxed around the Praia da Amalia, which our guidebook noted is the result of a recent cliff collapse in 2022 and ongoing coastal erosion. 

Scarites cyclops beetle making its way across the sand

Taking a few minutes to rest, we eventually climbed up into a tiny village on rotting boardwalks and a broken wooden staircase. 

There we found an open bar that could only be described as an establishment that defied all expectations of Portuguese cleanliness and friendliness.  Approaching the business, the smell of rotting fish wafted through the air and the staff eyed us with exhausted indifference.   Regardless, we found a table on a glass-enclosed patio, bought two cold ice teas, and collapsed onto the sticky chairs for a few minutes reprieve from the sun.    

Road Walking and Warnings (of things to come)

Half an hour later we paid for our drinks and set back out, following the trail along a quiet country road.  As we began to feel our stride for the day, we were surprised as a group of middle-aged gentlemen marched toward us.  As they passed by, heading south, the troop was having a heated argument about the day already being too long and too hard.  The leader of these hikers was muttering about the trail and loudly declaring that they had two options.  The first was to call a taxi and get a ride, while the second was to “simply walk down the road for an hour or two” to Odeceixe and be “done with the day”.   We were just in time to hear their final decision, which was that “walking twice as far on the road was better than going near those types of beaches ever again!”  As they passed us, undeniably, they each did look utterly exhausted and worn out, leaving us wondering what on earth was in store for us next.

I must amid that each time I have seen people skipping sections of trail or taking a taxi without any seemingly evident emergency or medical cause, I am a bit bewildered.  I do recognize that everyone “hikes their own hike”, that for many the goal is the destination and not the adventure along the way, and that sometimes circumstances force all of us to alter our plans.  I have been on pilgrimages and trails around the world and had others lecture me as I add distance by trekking along alternative routes as it does not fit with their maxim of finding the shortest means from A to B. 

Yet, as a thru-hiker it has never been about the shortest nor easiest route,  For me, it is about time spent in nature.  To me it simply does not make sense that someone would choose to come out onto a long-distance trail, with the intention of walking from place to place each day and then - not because of injury or physical limitations - seek out the most direct path and endlessly rationalize using taxis.  Ultimately, to us, the notion of abandoning the day’s hiking or shortening the stage simply to get to the goal just never occurs as a possibility.

Moving on, the Fisherman’s Trail continued to follow the country lane past what appeared to be huge vegetable farms and greenhouses back to the coast.  Every few minutes in this stretch we were passed by more and more southbound hikers, all looking grim, and with several stopping to ask us if the next town had a taxi.  To all of this, we were again left wondering what was coming ahead of us on the trail – after all how bad could it actually be?

Portuguese Coastal Wildlife Life

Back on the Atlantic shoreline we soon noticed a Peregrine Falcon perched majestically on a rocky outcropping, stacks of White Stork nests perched atop sea stacks off the coast, more long streams of ants, two lizards basking in the sun, and several huge black Scarites cyclops beetles with large pinchers!  

Peregrine Falcon perched on a rocky outcropping

White Stork nest on the cliffs of the Atlantic Ocean

Of course, the possibilities for wildlife are not limited to insect and bird sightings.  Here, the dunes and grasses of this region hide a vast diversity of species – many of which are nocturnal. Visiting the Alentejo one has the potential to see Egyptian mongoose, weasels, the beech martin, badgers and otters!  All of these species rely on the abundant rabbit population here. While we saw lots of signs of animal life in the dunes, including footprints, tracks, and burrows, our actual animal sightings were limited to spotting a few rabbits as they bounded through the scrub brush. As an interesting aside, according to local naturalists online, the rabbits for this region are the original stock of all rabbits worldwide. Fascinating! 

Little by Little, in the Footsteps of Others

In general, I think it is fair to say that the second half of our day between Praia dos Machados and Zambujeira do Mar was a tough one.  Throughout this stretch, the trail was soft and sandy.  Despite signage and warnings in the guidebook about coastal erosion, the marked path often traversed extremely close to the cliff edges.   These stretches, which countless other hikers have trod upon, are narrow and often very churned up, a combination that makes for challenging walking.  After a week of hiking in these types of conditions, we have come to the conclusion that the best way to proceed is to take short steps, shorten your stride, and walk literally in the footprints of others. 

As we trudged through the arid dunes we began to notice that the people hiking past us were muddy up their knees!  Uncertain of what the first few individuals had gone through to be in this state, we continued on, now amid long lines of southbound trekkers – each of whom was also weary-looking and mud-splattered.   Adding to this unexplainable situation, we soon arrived at the top of a wicked descent along the rocky cliff face.  Unexpectedly, two truly massive men in soldier’s camo were hauling themselves up it towards us.  These imposing muscular men both had cameras around their necks, wore massive military backpacks, and were helping many of the older women up onto the cliff.  When they saw us looking at them, they held up their cameras and said “It is ok, we are on leave.  Just visit, just visit.”  While I admit that they were both very friendly and helping many others on the trail, it was nonetheless somewhat unnerving to hear them continually repeating “it is ok, it is ok.  Just visit, just visit.” 

Odd Encounters on the Rota Vicentina 

Despite our misgivings, it was soon clear as to why so many southbound people looked weary as they passed.  As we soon discovered, much of what remained of the day’s trek was a series of wicked descents and unnerving climbs along the coast.  Adding to these challenges was the fact that we had several unique encounters as the day progressed.

White Stork nest on the coast of Portugal's Alentejo region

Following the coastal trail, we encountered a stretch filled with a number of southbound walkers who marched in unison, as their hiking poles flew in every possible direction.  Many of these trekkers marched side by side, two and three across the pathway, and as we approached none was willing to make room on the sandy track for us.  As a result, we were forced to step off the trail in some truly terrifying spots, to wait for them to pass by. Pointedly, none of them acknowledged us and most looked away as they walked by.  Hardly polite trail etiquette, especially in an area with dangerously eroding cliffs.

Sadly however, after this group moved on, our odd encounters for the day were not at their end. As we struggled over the sandy and challenging terrain, which required us to slow our pace accordingly, we soon had an older English-speaking hiker marching right on our heels.  No matter how we proceeded, up or downhill, slowly or quickly, he remained steadfastly a few paces behind us, loudly grumbling about our “slow pace”.   Given his growing agitation, we stopped to allow him to pass multiple times, but each time he refused.  We were grateful when he finally decided to overtake us, heading off on his own along the trail.  Unfortunately, this reprieve was only a momentary illusion.

After giving him 5 minutes to get well ahead of us, we were dismayed when only 50-100 meters further along the path, we caught up with him again.  Here we found him stopped and looking back and forth between his guidebook and his cell phone, checking and re-checking the route in seeming confusion.  This meant that in short order we soon passed him once again.   As we did so, he immediately resumed marching on our heels and continued his litany of complaints.  In response, we again stopped to allow him to pass and waited so he could pull well ahead.  And….frustratingly, we again found him checking his map and guidebook a short distance beyond.  Unbelievably, this process repeated over and again for several kilometres, until we reached a narrow and particularly unnerving descent down a cliffside, followed by a nearly vertical ascent almost immediately afterwards. Neither of us had any interest in attempting this section while being berated or rushed, so we took a break.  Predictably, so did he.  Making this situation odder, this gentleman did eventually hike on, but ultimately he waited until another large group of hikers was nervously struggling up the steep stretch of trail.  Just when they reached the narrowest and hardest point of their climb, he rushed downhill into them, causing a panic as he pushed roughly passed each person.  Glad to be finally free of him, we waited for the other hikers to complete their precarious ascent before continuing on ourselves.  

Muddy Tunnels and Unique Wildlife

After this, a dry and sandy stretch of the Rota Vicentina took us inland, weaving us through a tunnel of dense shrubs, trees, and mud.  Hunched over to avoid catching our backpacks on the low arched shrubbery we awkwardly half crawled along the trail. 

While we had already been passed by over 100 southbound hikers, we were extraordinarily grateful not to encounter anyone in this narrow section, as there was no room to allow someone else to get by.  

Aoudad sitting majestically in a paddock along the trail

Aoudad on the move, investigating the curious hikers

Emu grazing nonchalantly beside the pathway

Eventually, his unique part of the Fisherman’s Trail brought us to a fence line which traced a narrow path between dense trees and some sort of farm or zoo enclosure.  Here we spotted a small group of Aoudad with huge curved horns and shaggy furry legs, several curious Emus,  and what we assume was a nest of large Emu eggs in the sand. Certainly, none of these interesting creatures were wildlife that we had anticipated seeing in Portugal! 

Praia do Carvalhal

Leaving the fenced enclosure behind, we continued back to the coastline, where the trail continued its pattern of descending and ascending before bringing us to the Praia do Carvalhal.  There we discovered a Tiki bar that was open and were able to indulge in 4 iced teas to cool off.  The bartender was clearly aware of how much the heat was affecting us, and very kindly gave us each deliciously cold glasses filled with ice to enjoy our drinks from.  As we sat in the shade we listened to 1980s music which was being played throughout this small oasis.  

After relaxing for half an hour, and with only a short distance left to go, we pulled on our backpacks and stepped back into the sun.  Walking into a section signed as having "unstable cliffs," we trekked almost vertically back to the top of the coastline and continued along the sandy track amid colourful wildflowers and succulents.  The trail then took us along deep sandy pathways, on boardwalks, through another tunnel of trees, and down a narrow rocky route.  Perhaps it was merely our exhaustion near the end of the day, but our final approach to Zambujeira do Mar was some of the toughest hiking that we have experienced so far on the Rota Vicentina. 

At last we had come to understand the weary and battered looks from other hikers earlier in the day.

Zambujeira do Mar

With our destination in sight, the trail left the coastline and led us along a roadway to the back of a beautiful sandy beach before weaving back up into the town of Zambujeira do Mar.  There, in contrast to our time on the trail, we navigated sidewalks filled with throngs of tourists.  Arriving into Zambujeira do Mar we got a table at the first outdoor patio bar that we found and enjoyed cheese sandwiches and a cold beer.  Nearby was the beautiful Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Mar, which overlooks the stunning Zambujeira do Mar beach and the Atlantic Ocean. 

As we discovered several days ago, all of the accommodations in Zambujeira were booked for this evening, so we are camping tonight.  Paying our bill, we set off through town toward the campground.  Zambujeira do Mar, like the other villages along the Rota Vicentina, is a community filled with traditional clean white buildings trimmed in reds, yellows and blues.  

   

Following Google Maps, we walked 15 minutes out of town to the campground, which immediately reminded us of the KOA facilities across North America. With that said, this campground was pristine, from its hot showers and laundry facilities to the fact that even the ground looked like it had been vacuumed clean.  With the late afternoon temperatures at their peak, we set up our tent in our assigned space, took cold showers, did laundry, and enjoyed a few treats from the open-air bar on site.  

Sunset on the Rota Vicentina

With most of the nightly stops on the Rota Vicentina directly along the Portuguese coastline, the sunsets are one of the most stunning parts of this hike.  Our campground host claimed that Zambujeira do Mar, with its incredible views over the beach, is one of the best places to watch the sunset in Portugal. and so we walked back into town to enjoy the evening.   

Making our way through Zambujeira do Mar, we followed the stone sidewalk down to the beach. There, with the water gently washing inland, I slipped off my sandals and wadded into the water.  Meanwhile, Sean had his large telephoto birding lens on the camera and was striving to take a picture, when a group of local teenagers walked up and tried to yank it away from him.  One boy was forward enough to bluntly proclaim “I think this is mine” as he tried to pull it away. Thankfully, Sean always had his gear around his neck and strapped with a security lock to his backpack, so their efforts didn't get far.  When Sean countered, telling him “No that is not yours” the young man and his friends shamelessly let go, giggled, and strolled away, stating in English “ok, ok, ok, sorry, mistake.”  Shocked, we nonetheless continued our walk along the sand, while the sky became a stunning spectrum of colours of reds, pinks, and oranges as the sun slid into the ocean, bringing an end to another day. 

With night settling in, we eventually climbed back up off of the beach and wove through town to the only open establishment tonight – a pizza restaurant.  There we ordered a bottle of wine, a salad, and a single pizza.  Even though both the salad and pizza were massive, the owner was clearly displeased that we had only ordered a few items.  Regardless of her brisk attitude, we entirely enjoyed ourselves.  Afterwards, we wandered back to our campsite amid the quiet and cool of the night.  After beginning our day in a loud hostel with the sounds of partying and the city around us, concluding it here in Zambujeira do Mar at a quiet campsite in the open air was just what we needed!

See you on the Trail!