Leave No Trace on the Rota Vicentina : Aljezur to Odeceixe

Leave No Trace on the Rota Vicentina

Good Hiker Practices on the Fisherman's Trail

Perhaps the most surprising thing that we have repeatedly noticed amid the stunning landscapes of southern Portugal has been the seemingly casual disposal of household waste and hiker garbage along the trail.   En route, we have come across piles of discarded construction materials, passed intersections in which people have disposed of personal items, found plastic bottles and beer cans littered across beach parking lots, and seen how trail users have used sandy stretches as washrooms.  All of this is surprising given that, first, the Portuguese culture is impeccably clean, and second, hikers should be dedicated to Leave No Trace Principles. All of this is a roundabout way of saying that there is clearly a need to promote Leave No Trace principles and responsible hiking on the Rota Vicentina.

Alijezur Nature Conservation

This morning we got out of bed at 6 AM.  This early rise was not the result of an interest in getting an early start.  Instead, it was owing to the continuous noise of a local rooster who had begun crowing just after midnight and who continued through to sunrise.  This avian was unfortunately joined at 5 AM by a dog, who barked in response to the agitated bird.  

Very tired but ready to go, we repacked our gear, made coffee in our room, left our key in the lock, and set off.  Stepping out the door, we navigated through Aljezur, retracing our steps through the modern district, over the river, and back into the historical quarter of town.  Wandering the historical district we followed a narrow stone road between pristine whitewashed homes.  In this short stretch, we also ventured alongside the river and passed a plaque for a historic Toll Booth. 

Soon after, at the edge of Aljezur, we found the Parquet de Merendas da Aljezur, a public park dedicated to the natural restoration of the local waterway.  Information placards detailed work to improve the habitat for birds, turtles, snakes and fish.  These conservation efforts were clearly having a positive effect, given how many species we spotted in this same river yesterday while enjoying our afternoon meal.  

Into the Fields

Having learned more about the region and its nature protection goals, we proceeded out of town, ascending a steep hill on a country lane before beginning our hike across an open agricultural landscape.  Today’s trek is somewhat different than the previous stages in that a large portion of it is inland rather than along the Atlantic coast.  Though the terrain today was easier to handle than the repeated and steep descents and ascents along the coast, it also meant that much of the route was exposed and very warm.  

Emerging into the open fields at the top of our climb we were greeted by vast tracts of land and rolling hills, which disappeared into the golden mist of the morning. We spotted European Goldfinches bouncing from shrub to shrub and eating thistle seeds and heard our first Black-billed Cuckoo for the trek calling out.  Following the trail signs and blazes, we wove along the edge of fields, past farms, and to an established campground that we had originally considered stopping at yesterday.  Although the campground looked very nice, the additional 45-minute walk to town seemed like too much given our own uncertainty as to what the amenities would be like.  In the end, we were happy with our decision to stay in Aljezur instead.  

However, standing there, refreshed from a night's sleep, it was clear that this campground, which had lots of treed sites and cabins, as well as appeared to have a small shop was a viable option for accommodation on the Fisherman’s Trail.  

Oak Cork and Cork Forests

As someone who has lived in both Algonquin Provincial Park, Ontario and the coastal mountains of British Columbia, as well as hiked hundreds of kilometres in the Rocky Mountains, I am still getting used to seeing stands of pine alongside eucalyptus and cork trees.  While forests in Portugal are often little more than stands of a few trees, or a managed plantation, they nonetheless have an interesting tale to tell.  Cork Oaks are found across Portugal, but are more numerous in the Alentejo and Algarve regions, owing to their preference for a Mediterranean climate typified by short dry summers, high humidity, and mild winters. Cork Oak is an evergreen with low, twisted branches that do not grow very tall.  Uniquely, Cork Oaks can regularly have their bark stripped using a special tool in the spring and summer when new tree growth makes it easier to remove the material.  Harvesting of the bark does not start until a tree is at least 25 years old, and can then be removed every 9-12 years.  This process of harvesting Cork Oaks can continue for up to 200 years, meaning that each tree can potentially be stripped 15 times throughout its lifecycle.  This process almost makes cork harvesting unique in the forestry industry in that regular production requires that no trees are cut down and no habitats are lost.

European Goldfinch in the tall grass on the Rota Vicentina

As an economic product, Portugal supplies about 50% of the world’s cork, which today covers between 8-10% of the country while accounting for more than 25% of its forests. The value of cork was acknowledged by the Greeks, Egyptians, and Romans who recognized its use in the production of sandals, insulation, and stoppers in drink and wine bottles.  Nevertheless, throughout the past century, vast tracts of cork have been replaced with urban sprawl and huge eucalyptus plantations – which are responsible for the vast regional forest fires that Portugal now regularly experiences.  Cork forests declined so much that in the 1970s cork producers successfully petitioned the government to pass legislation to protect these historical stands.  Today it is illegal to cut down Cork Oaks without government permission.

Beyond their economic value, cork oaks serve a number of key functions both in Portuguese society and with regard to environmental sustainability.   First, the acorn nuts that fall from Cork Oaks can apparently be eaten by people, are used by local farmers as sustenance for their pigs, and also serve as an important source of food for wildlife. Second, Cork Oak supports a diverse ecosystem and habitat for over 160 species of birds, including the rare Spanish Imperial Eagle, as well as food for wild boars and the recently re-introduced Iberian Lynx. Third, Cork Oaks are resistant to milder forest fires, making them a fire barrier. Finally, Cork trees are essential in preventing the landscape from shifting, which reduces soil erosion on terraced and coastal properties.  

More simply put, Cork Oaks are a pretty amazing species of tree!

Road Walking

Our wandering through the peaceful fallow fields and stands of picturesque trees was generally an easy walk but also a hot trek across the exposed landscape.  One thing we have come to see on the Fisherman’s Trail is that when walking on the coastline there is a pleasant breeze off the ocean, which helps keep us cooler.  However, once we are inland and away from the Atlantic, the exposed trail and roadways that the Rota Vicentina follows often give way to higher temperatures.  For this very reason, the inland trek from Aljezur to Rodgil made for a challenging morning.

Cirl Bunting perched in a pine outside Rogil, Portugal

Largely, our walk between these towns followed a dusty, stifling track.  Despite the parched conditions, these open fields were nonetheless filled with wildflowers, grazing cows and sheep, and even a horse or two.  In addition, we noticed bird boxes hung in a few of the pine trees and spotted a Green Spotted Woodpecker in another.  According to the Rota Vicentina guidebook, this region is also home to Tawny and Meadow Pipits, Carrion Crows, Zitting Cisticolas, Shrikes, Corn Buntings, Eurasian Nuthatches, European Linnets, European Crested Tits and the Cirl Buntings.

Goose Barnacles

We walked into the village of Rogil along a straight gravel roadway, arriving to find what can only be described as a truly unique statue. In front of us, at the centre of a roundabout, was a large rock with three large protuberances sticking out of it.  From a few feet away it looked as though it was a shrine to either mushrooms or, well, to be honest …. penises.  Naturally curious, we looked up the statue and discovered that it was an artistic representation of Goose Barnacles.

Goose Barnacles, also known as Gooseneck Barnacles, Stalked Barnacles, or percebes are one of the region’s most favoured gastronomical dishes and are considered a delicacy throughout Portugal and Spain.   Apparently, the coastline in the region is renowned for the abundance of Goose Barnacles as the species thrive on the rocks and tidal pools in the surf of the rough Atlantic Ocean. In fact, the possibilities for abundant fishing, as well as mussel and Goose Barnacle harvesting, is the reason that so many people have settled here for thousands of years.

Goose Barnacles, Wikipedia Image 

 

Goose Barnacles apparently earned their name because, historically, certain bird species, including geese, were thought to have come from these ocean-side creatures.  The thinking was that since Barnacle Geese were not seen to nest and raise young of their own in Europe, they must spontaneously arise from these sea barnacles because they shared a similar colour.  This debate is detailed in historical documents, scientific discourse, and religious correspondence from as early as the 12th century onward.  Apparently, the notion that birds migrate to and from their nesting sites over Europe was not part of the consideration.  

Rogil Portugal

Leaving the unique statue, and the rather odd history of Goose Barnacles behind, we navigated into and through the village of Rogil.  There we followed the sidewalk along the Main Street of the town until we found an amazing-looking local bakery by the name of Pão do Rogil.  Sitting in the shade on the patio, we enjoyed cold orange juice and fresh chocolate croissants.  Surprisingly, amid our break a family of 4 Canadians from Vernon, BC sat down next to us and announced that they were just starting the trail. 

Excited to have an extended conversation about the trail, we chatted with this friendly group.  As it turned out they were visiting Portugal and had heard about the Rota Vicentina trail a few days beforehand.  They had immediately decided to halt their sightseeing and take a taxi to a midpoint in the trail and walk.  Unfortunately, they did not know where the path was or where it went.   They did not have a guidebook or know the blaze colourings to follow along the route.  As such, they borrowed our guidebook and quickly photographed each page.  As we finished our morning snack they were arranging accommodations for the night in Odeceixe, and calling a taxi to take their suitcases onward.  We had to admire their fearless spontaneity! After half an hour or so of chatting, we said our goodbyes and again followed the sidewalks to the northern end of town.

Birdwatching the Portuguese Countryside

Leaving the paved roads of town behind, we turned onto an exposed, hard-packed dirt track, and headed back towards the Atlantic coastline.  En route, we passed irrigation ditches, walked alongside expansive agricultural lands, and traced wobbly fence lines.  Thankfully, after 30-40 minutes we arrived at the end of a sandy lane amid a stand of trees which allowed us to take a break in at least a small puddle of shade. 

Iberian Green Frog sitting in the sun

White Stork foraging for food in a field

Lesser Black-backed Gull soaring overhead

Around us, the recently harvested fields were scorched and empty, while other farmers were out tilling their land.  As a result, huge clouds of dust and dirt filled the air.  Clearly, this region and the severe drought it was suffering made farming extraordinarily challenging.  For us, the highlights of this dusty stretch were finding an Iberian Green Frog, stopping to watch a White Stork foraging quietly at the edge of a field and enjoying the sight of a Lesser Black-backed Gull circling overhead in the clear, blue sky. 

Despite the harsh climatic conditions this coastal environment endures, with its mixture of agriculture, grape vines, eucalyptus stands, junipers, thyme and lavender the varied habitats have given way to a stunning mixture of bird life, including both Tawny and Meadow Pipits, Zitting Cisticolas, Shrikes, Corn Buntings, Nuthatches, European Tits!

Coastal Erosion 

When we reached the coast near Baia do Tiros we came to a lookout platform that was well back from the cliff edge.  Unused to seeing railings along the shoreline we investigated, only to discover that a large part of the cliff was breaking off - it was already cracked and fragile-looking.  Apparently, the Algarve shoreline that much of the Rota Vicentina follows is threatened by coastal erosion.  Not only that but the phenomena is worsened by climate change, with its increasingly frequent and violent storms, as well as the dangers of rising sea levels.  For this reason, hikers are asked to stay on the established trail and lessen human impacts.  As it turned out, much of the inland diversion today was the result of coastal erosion and conservation efforts.  

Before continuing on, and with the noon sun beating down on us, we took yet another break in the shade.  We were shocked as several southbound hikers passed us, dropping their trail bar wrappers on the ground as they walked on.  Never being sure what to think of this mentality, we picked up their garbage and slid it into our side pouches to be properly disposed of in town tonight.  I often assume that these types of actions are the result of a few ignorant or selfish people, but as we set off back onto the trail we immediately saw several signs asking hikers to take their toilet paper with them and to refrain from using the sand as a washroom!  Clearly, there is a need for Leave No Trace principles to be promoted on the Fisherman’s Trail.

White Stork soaring over the Atlantic

White Storks nesting along the Rota Vicentina

European Shags perched on the cliffs on the Algarve Coast

A little dismayed, we followed the coast for a bit before heading inland and then again returning to the Atlantic shoreline.  The second stretch along the cliffs was a several-kilometer-long slog through soft sand which made walking tough.  Offsetting these challenges, however, was the fact that the countryside was covered in a colourful array of wildflowers and cacti.  In addition, we also spotted six White Stork nests perched out on a rocky promontory along the coast.  Several nests were well established and were home to 2-3 fuzzy white chicks, while others looked as though they were little more than a sad patch of sticks laid together.  

Natural Wonders, Roads and Riverways 

Having spent several hours bird-watching along the coast while trekking north from Rogil, we eventually reached Praia de Odeceixe – a beach which is considered to be one of the 7 wonders of Portugal.   From the trail we were provided amazingly clear views of the Atlantic coastline and tomorrow’s seaside route to Zambujeira do Mar to the north.  The nearby coastal community looked more like a resort than a village.  This collection of homes overlooked the stunning beach, which was filled with folding chairs, which were themselves filled with vacationers. 

The familiar European Stonechat singing in the shrubs

Feeling ready to get inside and cool off, we began the final part of the day’s hike – a 3 to 4 km stretch of road walking from Praia de Odeceixe to the village of Odeceixe.  Turning back from the ocean we walked inland along a dirt track paralleling the riverway. There, the sheer amount of greenery in the agricultural fields around us reflected the fact that this region is at times a flood plain for the nearby Seixe River.  Throughout this stretch the sidings and ditches were marshy, being filled with reeds and rush.  As a result, they were teaming with bird life, which frustratingly always seemed to remain just out of sight.

European Serin perched quiety on a fense outside Odeceixe

Common Waxwing flock in the grasses on the Rota Vicentina

Nearing the town of Odeceixe the trail wove away from the river and between farmer’s fields, where we found a large mixed flock of Common Waxwings, European Goldfinches, Corn Buntings, and two Eurasian Wrens.    In addition to the birds, this region also purportedly provides habitat for one of the most endangered rodents in Europe, the cute-looking Cabrera’s Vole.  Try as we might, unfortunately, we did not get a glimpse of any moles.  

Odeceixe Portugal

Following a hard-packed gravel track to Odeceixe, we were ‘greeted’ by several metal artistic structures at the edge of town.  However, standing at the base of town, the most evident feature of the community was a prominent blue-trimmed 19th-century windmill standing above it at the top of the hill.   Recognizing that both our accommodations and the town square were uphill, we pushed on, navigating the streets of this cozy and friendly community. 

Despite it being only a 10-minute walk to the Residencia do Parque, the climb was nonetheless a tough one after a day on the trail.  Unfortunately, our accommodations didn’t open until 4 PM, and we soon discovered that the mill towering above the city was closed for the day as well.  Hoping to get out of the sun, we returned to the main square with its small fountain and colourful restaurants and found a seat in the shade.  There we rested and enjoyed a couple of cold beers while figuring out tomorrow's trek and making reservations in Zambujeira do Mar. 

Checking in and Dinner 

Having waited until the check-in time, we paid our bill and returned to the Residencia do Parque only to discover that our accommodations now had a self-check-in system – with keys being left on a peg board.  A little frustrated that we had not discovered this earlier, we climbed the 3 flights of stairs to our room.  Opening the door, we found an impeccably clean room – which like so many other albergues and hostels – looked as though it was a display taken directly out of Ikea.  The bed, the shelves, the wardrobe and even the children’s floral bedspreads were all highly utilitarian, but unmistakably from Ikea.  

Regardless, we ultimately had everything anyone could possibly need, and so settled comfortably in.  
We soon had washed both ourselves and our clothes, which we hung on the small balcony outside, which overlooked a solid concrete wall that both descended several stories below us and at least another two stories above us. Then, with the day’s heat cooling off, we wandered back to the town centre to visit a local restaurant.  Surrounded by other hikers, almost all of whom were heading south, we enjoyed a pitcher of Sangria, a garden salad, and a delicious pizza while relaxing in the shade of a patio umbrella. As the evening progressed we listened to live music being played across the courtyard and relished the cool evening air.   

Afterwards, the town was bathed in the warm glow of street lights and resonated with the contented murmur of happy people enjoying the evening.  Above the clicks and chips of House Martins could be heard circling in the warm evening air.  As we walked back to our accommodations we found an open mercado where we bought breakfast for tomorrow morning.  Back in our room, the exhaustion of the day caught up with us and we both soon fell asleep.

See you on the Trail!