Finding Balance on the Rota Vicentina : Zambujeira do Mar to Almograve

Finding Balance on the Rota Vicentina

Hiking the Fisherman's Trail

“Walking is meditation.  Eventually, you run out of thoughts and simply

have to accept the wisdom of nature.”

Each day on a trail is unique.  As with all pathways, some sections have a great deal of wonder and terrific experiences en route, while others are simply about trekking from place to place.  In the end, all we can do is hike the hike we are given and the path that is in front of us.  The key on the trail, as in life, is to accept what comes, leave things better than you found them, and find balance along the way.  

The Rota Vicentina was designed to increase tourism, which in turn has helped revitalize many of the rural communities in southern Portugal – a region that has historically been left undeveloped.  Today expensive resorts, popular surf schools, and international food fare stand as testament to the fact that the Algarve and Alentejo regions are now world-class tourist destinations.  However, while tourism can be a benefit to regions, it also invariably changes them.  The result is that local residents must balance tradition with change.  They must find a way to hold on to what is theirs while navigating an industry dedicated to the whims of others.

This struggle is evidenced along the Rota Vincetina in the calls for hikers to “stay on the trail”, menu options at local bars which now list “authentic American food”, and lodgings with increasing numbers of amenities. As a result of this trend, many of these historic communities are being slowly transformed into spaces set up solely to care for the demands of tourists, rather than as a means to meet the needs of the residents.   While cultures and identities are always evolving, there is clearly a point at which local traditions and ways of life are subsumed by others. 

Today’s trek showed us both sides of this tourism dynamic.  We met kind local residents amid arrogant visitors. We could see the positive impact of the travellers on local economies.  At the same time, we noticed that the amazing Portuguese cuisine of the region is being marginalized by the push for “authentic hamburgers”. 

Finding balance is never easy.  Whether in life or on the trail. Neither travel nor trekking are passive undertakings.  Beyond the physical demands of hiking, each of us is visitors who regularly engage with, interacts with, and shapes the lives as well as the communities of others.  As a result, whether one is on pilgrimage along the Camino de Santiago, hiking the Appalachian Trail, or rambling the GR routes of Europe, each of us has a responsibility to be the best version of ourselves.  No matter the challenges of the day, or the frustrations of the trail, we each need to reflect on the generosity of those who build and maintain the routes, we each need to reciprocate the kindness of those who welcome us into their communities and homes, and we each have a duty to be curious explorers rather than expectant tourists.

Coffee and Croissants on the Fisherman’s Trail

Today began perfectly.   There was no disturbance, there was no noise, and it was wonderfully cool!  We were slowly awakened at 6 AM by the lyrical morning chorus of birds including, a number of peacocks in the trees.  Relishing this tranquillity, we were slow to rise, slow to pack up and slow to head out.  By 7:30 AM we said goodbye to our cozy campsite and walked into town, where we found an open café for our morning coffee and croissant. 

As the day began we enjoyed our breakfast on the small patio, watching people as they too stepped in for a drink or set off for work. The tranquillity of the moment was only shattered when a taxi dropped off a group of 4 hikers who marched onto the patio, pushed a local lady out of the way, and began loudly demanding to be served.  Amid this rudeness, we decided to extract ourselves and head back out into nature.   Leaving the café, we returned to the cliffside blue and white Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Mar from which we again enjoyed amazing views of the coastline and beach below.

Turning away from the panoramic view, we navigated the city streets of Zambujeira do Mar northward.  Today’s stage is actually unique on the Rota Vicentina, as Zambujeira is a city on top of a hill, which means that this is one of the few mornings that we do not have to begin by climbing out of a river valley or seaside beach.  Leaving town we followed a maintained wooden boardwalk out to a quaint historic fountain.  Stumbling upon such quiet places, like the fountain this morning or Arrifana’s Ribât, are the sort of moments that we might easily race past on a bike or in a car, but which we discover on foot.  More simply put, they are the sort of places we love to come across while hiking. 

Walking on, we continued along the hard-packed pathway bordered by wooden railings as it traced the top of the cliff.  Following this short stretch on the coast, we trekked down another section of boardwalk that led us back inland, where we walked for several kilometres on a wide cobblestone sidewalk along the edge of a paved road.  All in all, it was an easy way to begin the day.

Porto das Barcas

Leaving the roadway behind, we arrived at the tiny fishing village of Porto das Barcas.  What made this small town of derelict fishing shacks and piled lobster traps stand out was the juxtaposition between these abandoned buildings and the modern structure, guard tower, and 21st-century communications antenna at the center of it.  While one side of the street had buildings in advanced states of disrepair, many with collapsing roofs, the other had several very expensive cars and was being carefully watched by two old people with huge dogs.  Both of us had the same thought: is this a fishing harbour, or it is an MI6 observation outpost?  According to Google, it is neither, as it is listed as a GNR, or police facility.  If that is the case, then this is the most heavily armed and guarded outpost in Portugal.

With no one on the streets, and not wishing to be questioned for either being in town or having a camera on near this facility, we increased our pace and followed the roadway down to the sea-level harbour.   At the waterline, we passed a small shack and several overturned boats which had been placed along the boat launch.  We then climbed back up the cliffside on a rickety wooden staircase that included signs proclaiming that the structure could only hold a maximum of 4 people at one time.  Worried that this weight ratio might not include hikers and their backpacks, we summited one at a time. 

Stacks of Storks 

Research about the Rota Vicentina before we set out had informed us that from Zambujeira do Mar to Cabo Sardao there were a surprising number of White Stork nests along the coastline.  Emerging onto the top of the cliff out of Porto das Barcas, we saw our first family of storks for the day.  Here two large storks stood on a large sticky nest caring for their small fuzzy white hatchlings!  

Our first White Stork nest of the day, near of Porto das Barcas

White Stork parent keeping watch on the nest

These large gangly birds, whose huge nests are improbably perched on stacks of rocks over the ocean, are fascinating to watch.  From only 20 or 30 feet away we could watch as they glided off their nests – either out over the water or inland to hunt for lizards, snakes and frogs to feed their young.  White Stork nests are often re-used year after year, and they are expanded upon with each successive season.  These annual additions have led to some stork nests growing to meters in height with one in Poland being recorded to weigh an estimated 1.5 tons. 

Nestling White Storks being fed by mom or dad

White Stork giving its loud 'clacking' call

Over time large stork nests invariably become home to insects and serve as a source of shelter and food for other birds. Indeed, this entire coastal stretch, despite being exposed to the constant ocean winds, waves, and weather extremes is noted by the Rota Vicentina guidebook as hosting an abundance of wildlife.  Included in this is a huge diversity of bird species are the jackdaw, shag, common kestrel, rock dove, peregrine falcon and black redstarts. In particular, rock doves, hardly a highlight for many birders, are especially interesting as they are thought to be the original species from which all feral pigeons around the world have descended. 

A Big Camera ... and a lot of Patience 

As we proceeded down the coast, periodically stopping to watch and photograph wildflowers, migratory birds, and other stork nests, something that happens from time to time occurred.  For whatever reason, if you have a camera or a large lens, such as you might use for landscape or birding photography, people assume that such gear inevitably means two things.  First “if you have a big camera you must get great pictures” and second, people have a need to get past you to also photograph “it” first.  I don’t know whether this is the result of natural curiosity or a drive in those looking for "Instagrammable moments." Regardless, the results have ranged from us meeting great people to situations that require a great deal of patience.  

Today this familiar scenario occurred again.  Having spotted another stack of stork nests, we took off our backpacks, left them just off the side of the trail, and walked out to the cliff edge to investigate the nests.  Watching through my binoculars while Sean was photographing the duo of storks and their nestlings, I suddenly heard someone behind us exclaim “Oh look at that camera, there must be something amazing over there.”  Turning around, we watched as three people half-jogged off the trail before stepping on and then stumbling over our backpacks.  When they reached us, one man literally pushed Sean sideways to stand in that exact spot to see what we were looking at. 

Yellow-legged Gull on a rocky promontory on the Atlantic

When they discovered that it was – in their words – “only another stupid bird” the woman began yelling at us for “wasting their time” and for having “tricked them into taking a picture of nothing”.  This sadly is not the first time we have been lectured on supposedly deceiving people by minding our own business.  Having chastised us, this trio of hikers returned to the trail in a huff and marched off.

Sometimes I don’t know what people are thinking.  To consider this coastline “nothing”, to think that birds, one of nature’s true wonders, are “nothing,” and then to be annoyed at someone who you've just interrupted is bewildering.  It reminded me of visiting the Louve in Paris years ago when after standing in line for hours to see the Mona Lisa, I watched as others turned their backs to the famous painting and took a selfie before walking on.  These people never seemed to even look at the masterpiece.  Instead, its sole value appeared to be as another bucket list item to have a picture of their face in front of.  The loss of such opportunities in life is hard for me to imagine. 

Cactus and Corridors of Eucalyptus

Eventually, the trail pulled away from the coast and we followed a hard-packed track along the edge of a field whose boundaries were delineated with fences.  Interestingly, along them were large cacti that were on the verge of blooming bright orange.  Here we walked between head-high oleander bushes that were also in full bloom and marvelled as butterflies, sparrows, and stonechats darted around us.  

Large Psammodromus lizard skittering into the shrubs

Adding to this biodiversity we also spotted several Large Psammodromus lizards basking on the dusty pathway. Walking through this short stretch was a pleasant opportunity to enjoy venturing through a landscape where we did not have to watch our feet or be aware of the sometimes dizzying heights of the coastline.   

Spanish Gatekeeper butterfly resting on the trail

Far too soon however our path turned back toward the ocean, weaving us through a tunnel of bamboo and eucalyptus.  As we meandered through this corridor of foliage dozens of different types of butterflies flitted about, and we were frustrated by hearing a new bird song that we could neither identify nor spot the source of.  

Farol do Cabo Sardao 

Back on the coastline, we followed a hard-packed golden sand track as we passed several beaches including Praia do Tonel and Praia das Langueria.  At times the wind was so strong that we could feel the salt spray hitting us in the face from the waves crashing into the cliffs below.  Rather than being a problem, however, it felt wonderful to have a strong breeze and light shower to cool us off.

Around 11:30 AM we came to a large lighthouse, the Farol do Cabo Sardão, which is the halfway marker for today’s stage.  Cabo Sadao, a large sprawling complex with a prominent red and white tower at its centre looked more like a fort than a lighthouse.  Approaching the building, our path joined with countless other trails which wove all over the place, the result of tourists walking directly from their cars to lookout points.  

Outside of the lighthouse, we found signs for Peregrine Falcon conservation and notes about other birds which could be spotted in the area.  Nearby, more White Stork nests were perched beyond the cliffs and were garnering a great deal of attention from visitors.  In addition, we found several people with birding scopes and binoculars and had several great chats with people scanning the coast for specific e-Bird sightings. Clearly, the marketing of the amazing natural wonders and birding possibilities along the Rota Vicentina is having a positive impact and getting lots of people interested!

In total, throughout this small section, we passed a large group of southbound hikers, and by this point, we had counted more than 70 people as they trod past.  While almost all of them had a look of utter exhaustion on their faces, our sympathy for what they must have trekked through soon evaporated when their tour group leader approached a waiting van and began distributing cold water, orange juice and beer from coolers in the back.  Such are the virtues and appeal of venturing out on a package tour.  One does not have to hope for an open bar or café…the café and bar come and meet you.  

White Stork nest at the Farol do Cabo Sardão

Another White Stork nests at the popular birding hotspot

While envious of their “refreshments on demand” amid the heat of the day, we pushed on and followed the trail beyond the lighthouse.  There the trail once again turned inland, taking us around a section of high coastal erosion along a hard-packed dirt road bordered by agricultural fields. Reaching the tiny village of Cavaleiro, we made a direct line for the local café and enjoyed several cold ice teas and a pastel de nata as we rested in the shade.  Soon however the bar began to fill up with hikers, all of whom seemed to order massive fish sandwiches and huge bowls of terrific-smelling soup. Perhaps it is just us, but the heat of the day in no way lent itself to having an appetite for eating a warm bowl of soup before trekking on.

Soft Sand and Hard Hiking

Setting back out, we walked down quiet backcountry roads which led us through a pine forest before arriving back on the coast at Praia do Cavaleiro. With the temperatures now soaring into the high 30s, we were ready to be in the shade.  Instead, what stood in front of us was less of a trail and more of a seemingly endless sprawling dune system.  At this point, the Rota Vicentina transformed from being a walking path into what can only be described as a slog through deep, soft sand.  This was hardly a winning recipe for enjoying the final 10 km of the day’s stage.   Indeed, it did not take long to recognize that the exhaustion of the hikers whom we passed earlier was somewhat understandable – especially if they anticipated that the next 10 km of their day would be over similar terrain.

With that said, while challenging, the landscape was also stunning.  Around us the sand and soil were a bright golden yellow, the cliffs were a vibrant red, and the sand dunes stood like enormous waves.  Amid the challenges of walking through such soft sandy stretches it can, at times, be easy to dismiss such a landscape as tedious and unchanging.  However, if manage to pay attention and stay in the moment, the nature of such a landscape is truly stunning to behold.  

As we trudged along the coast we came to a number of coves and beaches.  There we could see a huge number of birds including flocks of Rock Pigeons in the caves, White Storks, European Shags, Black Redstarts, and countless gulls. In the updrafts along the cliffs, seabirds played while others hurriedly collected mud to build nests or food to feed their young.  A particular highlight was a pair of Blue Rock Thrushes moving among the grasses on the cliffside. In areas with lots of erosion and places where we could see under the edge of the cliff, countless swallows could be seen darting in and out of the earth.   Amid it all, a subtle range of flowers and succulents grew along the coastline of the Fisherman’s Trail. 
 
For a brief period, the Rota Vicentina headed inland weaving into a pine forest which provided us some welcome shade as the path became more firmly packed again.  While it was delightful to have a reprieve from the sun, our time in the forest also meant that we lost the breeze off of the ocean. 

Ultimately however you have to accept what you are given at any particular moment.  You could enjoy a cool breeze, but in exchange, you are trekking along an exposed route in soft sand.  Or you could relish the shade of a forest and a firm track, but lose the wind which has been cooling you off.  In the end, I think we underestimated just how tough it could be to carry heavy backpacks across the sandy and undulating coastline under the full sun and cloudless sky.  While we have had several short stretches that were sandy and slow going, they were nothing compared to this afternoon’s 10 km long walk in the unrelenting dunes.  While we were aware of the conditions before heading out and sought to brace ourselves, these are conditions which are hard to be fully prepared for.

Throughout this stretch, over the course of two hours, we were passed by several ladies riding horses and more than 100 southbound hikers.  It seemed that the further north we went, the busier the Rota Vicentina continued to get. 

Beach Bar Frustrations 

As we approached Almograve we started to see fishermen standing on the jagged coastal rocks casting their lines into the enormous waves.  From our perspective, many of these aged individuals were in completely inaccessible looking places.  The mystery of how anyone reaches these perches is beyond us. 

Bone-weary and drenched in sweat we arrived into a tiny village and followed a packed gravel road to a bar at the edge of the town’s beach.   This establishment, Bar da Praia do Almograve, was set on the edge of the sand and was very full of tourists as we slogged in. With only 1-2 km to go and plenty of time, before we could check in to tonight’s accommodations, we decided to rest in the shade.

We struggled into the busy establishment, and it was only after ordering that we discovered their beers were 10 Euros each!  Shocked, but honestly willing to pay anything for a cold drink, I took off my backpack and dropped onto a bench under a tiki umbrella overlooking the beach as Sean waited for our drinks.  As I sat down a group of fancily dressed women – each primping and preening – marched up to the bar and began yelling in English for service.  They were clearly expecting to be both admired and immediately served, and I was embarrassed at the attitudes of these American tourists.  Their treatment of the staff and everyone else as they demanded to pay in American dollars rather than Euros was horrid, and I silently prayed that Sean remembered how to order in Portuguese.  

As the bartender served Sean his drinks they were grabbed from in front of him at the bar by a member of this group.  Thankfully, the bartender noticed this and handed Sean two more open bottles, and he gratefully headed over to our shaded spot.  Placing the bottles down he also took off his backpack, only to have one of these women come over and slide onto the other half of the bench and smirk.  When he simply looked at her she yawned, reached over, and pushed our beers off the table.  As one drink crashed to the ground and the other poured off the table she did little to hide her attitude or provide any acknowledgement of what she had done.  Too warm and too tired to care, I offered to go buy us two more drinks, but the moment I stood up one of this woman’s compatriots rushed over to push me out of the way to sit down in my now vacated seat.  She then rudely demanded that we give her and her friends some space before turning her back on us and talking as though nothing had happened.   Realizing that trying to stay in this crowded tourist trap was not worth the effort and that this was not going to be a relaxing place to stop, we decided to move on. As we walked away there was a loud giggling conversation about “smelly hikers” and “dirty people”.  A 20 euro lesson learned: people are people and some of them are really crummy, regardless of how well-dressed they are or how much money they flash.

Almograve Portugal

With our energy sapped from a hot day on the exposed trail, we navigated the final part of the coastline and walked into town.  Almograve is a quiet village but one with plenty of amenities, including a couple of local bars, a small grocery shop, and several accommodations.  Though a cozy place, it was a small community and our circumnavigation and exploration of the village took no more than 10-15 minutes.

With 2 hours still to go before check-in, we walked into a quiet bar in the main town square to enjoy a cold drink.  As we walked in, though the staff was very pleasant, we felt like we were invading a local establishment which was a tourist-free zone that residents had understandably sought to keep to themselves.  We have encountered this before on GR routes, Caminos, and hikes around Europe.  While it rarely gives way to rudeness, there is nonetheless a certain look on people’s faces when tourists walk into a venue that is a bastion for residents.   Not wishing to overstay our welcome, we finished our drinks, thanked the proprietor, and went in search of supplies.  A few doors down we found a shop to buy some groceries to make tonight’s dinner and tomorrow’s breakfast.

By 3 PM we made our way to our accommodations, Casa Isa, and with still an hour to go before being allowed to our room, we sat at the heated bar behind the albergue and set about identifying the birds we had seen today.    By 4 we were checked in, showered, and had finished both hand washing and hanging our hiking clothes.  Tired from a day on the trail, we stayed in our room and enjoyed bread and cheese as we watched the sunset from our balcony. Throughout the night we left our window open to allow the cooler air and temperatures to wash over us. 

Reflecting on the Fisherman's Trail

There is no denying that today’s trek on the Rota Vicentina was a mixed experience.  On one hand, the landscapes, geology, wildlife, and birdlife are magnificent, but the high temperatures were a challenge.  While the red sand dunes, coastal rock formations, and colours of flowering vegetation were wondrous, the physical demands of venturing across several kilometres of soft dunes are tough.   Even the guidebook seemed to struggle to define today, noting it as being of “average difficulty”.  Yet this simple description hides the fact that while half of the trail was a stretch of relatively easy road and boardwalk walking, the other half from the lighthouse to Almograve was a tough slog through deep sand and over huge sand dunes. 

Adding to the wonders and challenges of the trail, I also have to admit that we are both a little depressed by the general rudeness that we have witnessed and encountered in other travellers lately.  Having said that, I will also state that there is no denying that for all the negative attitudes we have encountered, we by far experience more kindness and friendliness.  It just seems at times that the frustrating moments stand out.  I suppose that some moments just leave you struggling to find understanding and the right words.

Ultimately, today ends where we began this morning – by finding balance.  Finding a way to enjoy the easy and navigate the hard parts of the trail, balancing out the needs of local residents and their economic well-being with the demands of tourists, and striving to have a positive impact on the world.  As with so much in life, both are easier said than done. The key on the trail, as in life, is to accept what comes rather than expecting how we want things to be. 

“It isn’t the mountain ahead that wears you out; it’s the grain of sand in your shoe”

Robert Service

See you on the Trail!