Beaches on the Rota Vicentina : Almograve to Vila Nova de Milfontes

Beaches on the Rota Vicentina

Morning on the Fisherman's Trail

As usual, little was open this morning, so we made a breakfast of bread and strawberry jam while enjoying a coffee in our room.  Today’s stage on the Rota Vicentina from Almograve to Vila Nova de Milfontes is only 15.5 km in length, but this short distance can be even further cut down if we take a river ferry into the city.  Given the fact that we only had between 2 -3 hours of hiking, we took it easy, watched the sunrise, enjoyed the fresh breeze with its smell of clean ocean air as it came through our open window, and caught up on our travel journals.

Eventually, we packed up and set off around 9 AM, trekking along narrow village streets, past the roundabout in the main square and out of town.  Shortly after passing a historic washbasin we turned onto a dirt lane and began to hear the morning chorus of birds.  

Two Common Hoopoes perched atop a fence in Almograve

With dense foliage around us, we had little luck in seeing any of the songbirds calling out until we spotted two Common Hoopoes on a fenceline nearby.  This pair of Hoopoes were sitting side by side, and they would repeatedly call out before flitting further down the wire fence that was keeping a flock of sheep penned in.  Ever since walking the Camino Madrid route in Spain and spotting these wonderful and unique birds I have loved them.

Crawling (and Birding) Northward

Weaving our way back to the coastline, the trail meandered past agricultural fields and through a stand of willow, bamboo, and eucalyptus trees.  We soon arrived on the Atlantic shore near Foz dos Ouricos.  Here the trail was sandy and once again ants, beetles, and the occasional lizard could be spotted along the way.  En route, we were provided with wonderful views down the rugged shore and of secluded beaches while out at sea there was a line of massive container ships heading down the coast.  On the distant horizon, the tall buildings of Lisbon could just be made out through the humidity.   

The challenges of the day, as we later discovered, were well hidden among the natural beauty of the region.  Beyond a few ascents and descents, and the now usual sandy softness of the trailbed, this morning’s trek began as most others on the Rota Vicentina, beautiful but largely uneventful.  This changed however when the Fisherman’s Trail occasionally moved inland, taking us through a series of narrow tunnels of bamboo chutes, acacia trees, and thorny dense bushes where the path itself was reduced to puddles of water and slippery mud.   Trekking through the first few of these tunnels we simply had to duck our heads and watch our footing.  However, in several sections, we had to crawl to avoid being scraped or catching our backpacks. I am sure we made quite a sight for anyone who saw us pushing forward on our hands and knees!

Sardinian Warbler serenading us with its morning song

 

After one section of dense tunnels, the trail took us further away from the coast through grassy fields where ATVs, trucks, and legions of hikers had churned the ground into a sandy morass.  In this area, despite instructions on local signage and pleas in the guidebook for visitors to stay on the established trails, pathways crisscrossed the dunes in almost every direction – likely out of the hope that firmer ground could be located.  However, no matter what track we chose, the ground was soft and made for challenging hiking.   For us, the lone benefit of going at a reduced pace was catching sight of a huge number of birds calling out from the tops of nearby shrubs and bushes. 

Continuing on, the trail would periodically duck us in and out of more dense stands of vegetation – some were dry, others had small sections of boardwalk installed, and still others left us to our own devices.  At one point the tunnel of shrubs again got so dense and so narrow that both of us had to crawl on our hands and knees through mud that was several inches deep.  I wondered why these tunnels had not been clipped and cleared to be a little taller?  I began to seriously question whether this stretch was maintained by hobbits, kept in this state for conservation reasons, or simply designed by someone with a perverse sense of humour?  

Pair of Bank Swallow nestlings in the cliffs near Almograve

By 10 AM we were covered in mud and already a bit sore from crawling, when we began to encounter the first of the southbound trekkers for the day.  Vexingly, each of these hikers was also mud-splattered and frazzled-looking.  Clearly, there were more obstacles still to come and more tunnels still to crawl through. 

European Stonechat swaying in the breeze on a blade of grass

Soon afterwards we returned to the Atlantic coastline and discovered a huge number of Bank Swallow nests in the eroding cliffs!  Here the rocky and sandy walls were full of holes, with adult swallows busily feeding babies who diligently poked out their beaks and called as a parent flew nearby.  The entire scene was one of constant movement and excitement, all taking place at high speed and with terrific aerobatic expertise. 

Praia das Furnas and the Rio Mir

Shortly after this amazing avian display the Rota Vicentina once again wove inland, taking us along a wide sandy track lined with sedges and lone trees bent by the wind. As we approached Praia das Furnas we were passed by more than 150 southbound hikers.  Given how much time we have spent trekking on our own northward, this was a staggering number of people.

   

As I have mentioned before, these groups often appeal to me for the chance they offer to build a trail family and make friends along the way.  Alternatively, by heading northward it meant that we had the opportunity to spend more time quietly in nature.  Ultimately, there is a cost to each approach and we each hike our own hike, in our own way, and for our own reasons. This morning, seeing the crowds, I was happy with the solitude our northbound trajectory offered.

Hiking alongside a paved road and past parking lots for the local beach, we could see Vila Nova de Milfontes across the Rio Mira.  Milfontes is located along the shores of Portugal’s Atlantic coast where the Mira river estuary meets with the ocean.  Its location was historically important to the defence of Portugal’s coastlines.  However, in recent years it has been transformed into a popular tourist destination.  Walking onto the Praia das Furnas, and with today’s goal in sight, we took a break at a picnic table in the shade – both to rest and to burn time since it was now only 11 AM and we could not check in until 4 PM.

Ferries, Murals and Bridges

Leaving our shaded refuge, we walked onto the beach to the dock for the ferry, which could take us across to Villa Nova de Milfontes. Unfortunately, when we arrived we discovered that, given the low tide and exposed sand bars in the middle of the river, the boat was not running for the next few hours. As a result, we had a choice to make: wait for the boat to resume operations in a couple of hours, or trek inland to the roadway and span bridge to walk into town under our own power. In the end, the desire to get out of the blazing sun won out and we trekked on.   

Large Psammodromus lizard basking on the pier

With our rucksacks strapped to our backs, the final stretch of our short day took us past a uniquely gardened property which included the remains of a blue row boat and terracotta warrior.  After this, we climbed a steep hill along a footpath through a small forest.  Summiting this hill we wandered into an open field with a huge abandoned building.  Interestingly, one side of the structure was decorated with a huge mural of a nude lady and a snake.  After Sean admired and photographed the artwork (for far too long in my opinion) we traced the edge of the pasture and entered into the shade of a cork forest. 

Continuing on, the trail wove through a blessedly shaded region toward the edge of the river and up to the highway.  Stepping onto the wide roadway, we were grateful to discover that both the road and the bridge had wide sidings and sidewalks.  Even if the roadway had been busy, we would have been relatively safe.  Venturing over the Rio Mira, I was treated to stunning views of the waterway, the town of Milfontes, and birds along the marshlands below. Alternatively, Sean, who is not a fan of heights, steadily marched onward along the sidewalk, simply trying to get across without looking down. 

Walking far above the riverway I could see Little Egrets along the shoreline, and countless birds flying just below the deck of the bridge.   Our best guess was that these flocks were filled with unidentifiable swallows and/or swifts that acrobatically circled about – and likely nested under – the bridge.  According to iNaturalist this area is home to alpine, pallid and common swifts all of whom nest along this stretch of riverway and coast. 

Vila Nova de Milfontes

Having crossed the Rio Mira, we walked into town along cobblestone streets lined with traditional white buildings trimmed with blues, reds, and yellows.  With several hours still to go before check-in time, we made several stops.  Our first was at a bakery, the Padaria a Ceifeira, where we enjoyed a café com leite along with lemon and nut cakes.  Several blocks later we took another break at a gelato shop, the Geladaria San Pietro, and enjoyed large cold cones of ice cream on the patio.  

Sitting in the shade of the patio, we watched as residents and visitors alike wandered the streets.  It is always a bit of a shock to walk off a trail that you have enjoyed in relative isolation for most of the day and find yourself in a vacation hotspot.  From the cornucopia of people exploring the town, it is evident that Vila Nova de Milfontes attracts a large number of tourists each year.   This of course is unsurprising given that Milfontes is considered to be one of the loveliest places in Portugal, that it has a great climate, and several terrific beaches which give way to stunning views of both the Rio Mira estuary as well as the Atlantic Ocean.  Not for the first or the last time, I realized I could easily live in almost any of the towns along the Costa Vicentina in southern Portugal. 

Despite our best efforts to waste time, we managed to only spend about 40 minutes at these two establishments.  As such, we began to wander Milfontes and made our way through town, following the route of the Rota Vicentina to the waterline.    Reaching the Rio Mira, we trekked along a wooden boardwalk filled with stray cats and watched as swallows and swifts soared to the castle walls above.  As we passed the ferry dock it appeared that service had resumed, with a boat having recently docked and allowed hikers venturing southbound to Almograve to climb onboard.  

We continued along the shore of the river and around a large stone fort whose ivy-covered walls overlooked the river estuary.  The Forte de Sao Clemente, also known as Forte de Vila Nova de Milfontes, is a castle that was built in 1602 to protect the settlement and port from pirate attacks, and which was later used to defend against British assaults.  Fort Clemente served as a protective outpost until the 19th century, by which time the River Mira had declined in importance due to silting. Subsequently, the fortifications themselves fell into disrepair.  Between 1903 and 1906 the remains of the fort were auctioned to a private individual.  After this, the property spent decades in the hands of various owners. For many years the hope was to transform the fort into a guest house or hotel to accommodate tourists.  However, by 2009 it was again sold off with plans to turn it into a private residence.   

Having navigated through town, around its fortifications, and eaten twice, we still had a few hours to use up before being allowed into our accommodations.  Hoping to get out of the sun, and to put down our backpacks, we took the most obvious approach – we went in search of a bar and cold beer.  With this goal in mind, we made our way into the first establishment that was open, the Riverside Pub where we sat on their patio and enjoyed a panoramic view over the peninsula and Atlantic Ocean.

Birding Vila Nova de Milfontes 

Two hours and two pints later we walked over to the Casa Mar Azul Milfontes, our beautiful accommodations for the night.  Here we were met by our friendly host, who was a cork farmer by trade and a hostel owner to make ends meet.  Seeing our backpacks he asked how far we were hiking.  Upon discovering that we were walking both the Rota Vicentina and the Camino Portuguese he advised the route that we should take to connect Porto Covo at the conclusion of the hiking trail to Lisbon at the beginning of the pilgrimage path.

Having checked in, our host showed us to our rooms and then noticed that I was carrying binoculars and that Sean had a birding scope on his camera.  Seeing that we were birders, the conversation shifted to the gentleman’s own local sightings and his observation that as temperatures rose migratory birds were declining in numbers year by year.    Thanking him, we settled in, enjoyed refreshing showers, hand-washed our laundry, and hung it up to dry in the courtyard.  An hour later, having finished our nightly chores our host suggested that we walk the beach and go birding on the Praia do Carreiro da Fazenda following the coastline around to Praia do Farol and onward to the Praia da Franquia.  According to him these sites had several interesting species and would also lead us back into town for dinner.

Kentish Plover on the beach in Vila Nova de Milfontes

Adult Mediterranean Gull handing out on the shore

Young Mediterranean Gull looking for food on the beach

Our host's advice was sound - we spotted several Kentish Plovers scurrying across the sand within seconds of reaching the beach, and we also enjoyed watching a loose flock of Mediterranean Gulls hanging out on the sand. 

Finding Dinner, Reflecting on the Rota Vicentina

Walking back into the center of Milfontes, we soon discovered that most of the grocery stores had closed at 7 PM and that, if we wanted to eat, we would have to dine out.  As a result, we wandered around to see what was open, and predictably found many fish options and busy cafes, but had little luck in locating a place whose menu had vegetarian options.  Having explored much of town with little success, we eventually came to a nice-looking restaurant with outdoor seating that listed vegetarian options!  Happy to have located this quaint oasis, we sat down at a table on the covered patio along with several other couples.  20 minutes later, no one had yet to come out or even acknowledge any of the people waiting. Hungry, we walked into the bar, followed by several other patrons to ask if the restaurant was open if they were serving food, or if we could even order drinks.  

The response from the people working at the bar was both comical and heartbreakingly frustrating.  We were first told that yes they were open and that we should just sit outside and wait as the server was about to come out.  In response, we all returned to our seats on the patio and waited, and waited, and waited.  Another 20 minutes passed, and still no one had come out to ask if we wanted anything, to offer a menu, or to take an order. And so once again, we went back into the bar.  Here another odd conversation with the seemingly confused Australian bartender led us to again be told to return outside and wait before asking Sean “man just what is food anyways?” while I was complimented for my “amazing aura”.  

Admittedly, before we went back out to our table, one employee who was standing at the bar offered to sell us the leftovers from the meal that she was still eating, telling us that it “tasted great”.  Adding to the unique situation, neither of the people behind the bar could figure out how to use the beer tap, and instead just kept giggling.  At this point, another employee arrived and told us and several others who had also come in to order that we "should all just go and find seats as the patio was just about to open."  In the en,d we all simply walked away. 

Now all of this might make it sound like we were really picky, but we aren’t, and quite honestly, after a long day’s hiking we really just wanted to sit down, rest, and eat something.  Thankfully, despite our earlier struggles to locate dinner, we eventually found a terrific restaurant by the name of Tasco do Largo.  As we walked up a friendly waitress invited us to sit on the patio, handed us menus, and explained the local origins of the items on the menu while offering recommendations.  

As the night progressed we enjoyed sangria, a plate of Padron peppers, and bowls of rice with sautéed vegetables.  For dessert, I savored a wonderful traditional Portuguese cake with cinnamon and honey on top of a honeyed plum.  It was wonderful, especially because, despite the frustrations and perhaps even because of the challenges, our walk along the Rota Vicentina has been an amazing experience.

Enjoying the evening and watching the light of the day fade, we were stunned to see hikers still walking in from Porto Covo at 9:30 PM.  Each looked exhausted and sunburnt.  One couple in particular, who walked in, took off their backpacks and sat on the patio near us were in tears.  They spent much of their time during dinner trying to figure out if tomorrow’s next section heading south would be just as tough and debated whether they should just take a break after their first day on the trail.  And just like that, our entire focus turned to wondering what last challenge the Rota Vicentina would present on our final day of hiking tomorrow?

See you on the Trail!