Climb, Descend, Repeat on the Rota Vicentina : Salema to Sagres

Climb, Decend, Repeat on the Rota Vicentina

Hiking the Fisherman's Trail

When we woke up this morning it was overcast and the wind was still howling outside.  This worried us a little because today's walk on the Fisherman’s Trail from Salema to Sagres is supposed to be one of the toughest stages on the trail, involving six steep ascents and descents with several sections noted as being very close to the cliff edges.  It certainly lived up to its reputation for being a challenge, and at the end of the day, we were left feeling grateful to have walked this stage from south to north, ascending rather than descending some of the steepest parts of the trail.

Early start on the Fisherman’s Trail 

Wanting to get an early start to avoid some of the day's heat, we made coffee in the kitchen of the B&B and had a meal of bread and jam before setting off.  Admittedly, at the outset of the day, our legs were a little sore.  Despite the fact that we have completed several long-distance hikes around the world in the last few years, it still takes us 3 to 4 days with our backpacks on to get back to the point of not feeling the strain on our bodies.  Ready to go, we dropped off our keys, strapped on our backpacks, tied up our shoes, and headed out with the knowledge that things would get easier as our bodies got used to the routine of the trail once again.

Our morning began with us walking back into town to pick up the trail.  Once we rejoined the Rota Vicentina, we followed the markings as it climbed through the quiet cobblestone streets of a still-sleeping Salema to the other edge of the community.  Soon we were back on the coastal footpath, making our way along the cliff tops and walking high above the soft blue sea below. 

Luckily, as we began making our way along the exposed cliff tops, the ferocity of the wind seemed to have lessened a little.  In front of us, we could see the trail, a worn ribbon of colourful reddish earth snaking off into the distance ahead, leading us onward over scrubby green hills.  For those first few kilometres, we had the pathway to ourselves as we made our way along.  Given the nature of the region, its lush flora, tall cliffs, and long beaches it is easy to imagine the vast numbers of migratory birds which annually arrive here. 

Forte de Vera Cruz de Figueira

We soon rounded Praia Santa, a cove with a tiny secluded beach, and then came to the crumbling stone walls of Forte de Vera Cruz de Figueira.  The fort was built in the 17th century, probably during the Restoration War and the reign of King João IV.  There is a record of pirates from North Africa landing near the fort around 1760, with the goal of attacking the village of Figueira.  They were repelled by the people of the village under the leadership of Afonso Telo.  The fort was part of a line of coastal defences active at this time to defend against attacks. Unfortunately, it was damaged during the 1755 earthquake and by 1805 had fallen into disrepair.  Now all that remains are parts of the stone walls. 

Beginning at the walls of the fort, we had a pretty steep climb down a rocky trail on the very edge of the cliff to Praia de Figueira.  At the bottom of the hill, the parking lot for the beach was full of vans and caravans.  In addition, several people were sitting under blankets on the beach, enjoying the clear skies and cool breeze of the morning.  Here we took a break at a wooden picnic table on the edge of the sand.  Behind us, a forested river valley extended inland and we could hear the sound of bells worn by livestock grazing somewhere out of sight.   For years now the sounds of these bells – whether on horses or cows - always bring to mind the Pyrenees and our pilgrimage along the Camino Frances. 

Climb, Descend, Repeat

Rested from our first break we left the beach and began our first big climb of the day.  The ascent was so steep that at one point I was on my hands and knees, rock scrambling up a trail that was only inches from my nose.  We quickly learned that the fishermen in this area, or the local trail stewards, seemingly consider switchbacks to be unnecessary.    Here the 'trail' resembled an eroded landslide of loose rocks and dirt over polished slabs of stone with few handholds.  Going up was steep but ultimately not too bad, as long as we took our time.   By contrast, going down this same stretch would have been truly terrifying for me, and I was incredibly grateful to be doing this trail from south to north. 

Corn Bunting on Rota Vicentina near Salema

When we reached the top of the cliff we found ourselves in a pleasant pine forest.  There was bird song everywhere and a pair of anxious parents were vigorously telling us off for being too close to their nest.   Not yet familiar with many of the avian species here neither of us, unfortunately, had any idea what birds were warning us off.  

We soon continued on our way, following the partially shaded and pleasant trail back out towards the ocean once again.  A short while later we had another very steep descent down to a secluded sandy beach almost immediately followed by a climb back up to the cliff tops.  Thankfully, the sandy trail had some shallow switchbacks as we descended and so although we could look down between our feet to the beach below, it didn't feel like we would tumble straight down.  The climb back up was almost as steep and challenging as the first one, and for the second time, we were happy to be heading north instead of south. 

The trail soon returned to following a narrow earthen route along the edge of the towering cliff tops overlooking the ocean.  Here we enjoyed breathtaking views of the ocean coastline which receded into the distance.  As promised, the terrain we covered throughout the morning was challenging, and we were grateful for the steady cool breeze that was blowing in from the sea. 

Inland Trekking and Beach Breaks

After yet another steep and somewhat unnerving descent the trail turned inland, away from the sea. We followed a blessedly smooth and hard-packed road down a valley, walking almost all the way back to our starting point for the day, the edge of Salema.  Eventually, we turned and walked back out to the coast on a road that ran almost parallel to the first.  While this was definitely a detour of several kilometres that felt somewhat unnecessary, we enjoyed the fields of red-blooming poppies and assorted yellow wildflowers.  The valley was full of bees and birds, including Thekla's Larks, who filled the air with their beautiful songs.

European Stonechat on Fisherman's Trail near Salema

Much of this section seemed like we were simply making our way around a tract of private property, at the center of which sat a modern building that looked like the lair of a James Bond villain.  Two adobe domes with uniquely shaped windows were connected by a brickwork corridor, looking like an attempt to combine the old and new. 

Eventually, we crossed a small streambed that was completely dry and arrived back out onto a beautiful sandy coastal beach.  Here, as now seems the norm, the parking lot was full of camper vans and even a cave in the sheer cliff face on the edge of the beach had been filled with tents.  Amid these encampments, we passed a medicine wheel that someone had created from stones found along the beach.  

Eurasian Blackbird singing on the trail above the sea

Standing in a sliver of shade against the cliff face, we stopped for a short water and cookie break.  As we sat there a French family of four passed us, heading up the rocky cliff.  After watching their efforts we eventually followed in their footsteps, rock scrambling straight up the side of the cliff.  We once again needed to use both hands and feet to pull ourselves up. For the third time today, we were grateful to be ascending and not descending the rocky cliff face. 

Corn Bunting accompanying us on the Rota Vicentina

Once up on the cliff tops we simply followed the ribbon of red earth trailing along the cliff edges once again.  The sun had come out by this point, turning the sky a bright blue, and the ocean below it a deep, glowing, cerulean.  We could see the pale golden crescents of sandy beaches tucked in among the cliffs both up and down the coast.  Around us, the wildflowers and succulents lent colour to the landscape. 

Praia do Zavial

Around 10:30 AM we arrived at Praia do Zavial, a very popular surfing beach.  We could see about a hundred surfers down below us, gathered in groups with matching t-shirts.  It was clear the local surf schools were in full swing, with some groups gathered in circles in the sand receiving instructions while other groups gathered together in the water attempting to master the art of standing on a board and catching a wave. 

Stepping over the cliff edge the trail once again plunged down onto the beach, presenting a few short stretches that were somewhat terrifying for someone who isn't a fan of heights.  Here the loose, rocky pathway descended in switchbacks which unfortunately had been washed out at several points, leaving an eroded and sloping track with a shear drop below.  Thankfully, after some tricky navigation and words of encouragement between each other, we made it safely across by clinging to the rock face beside us.  

Once down on the beach, it was a labour-intensive walk across the soft, hot sand.  We wove our way among the surfers, intrigued to see how much skill is required to catch and ride a wave.  We had been hoping to take a break with a cold drink at the bar on the far side of the sandy expanse, but to our dismay, we learned that the establishment didn't open until 11 AM, and in any case (as the posted menu revealed) the prices were pretty steep. Muito turístico!

Continuing on, we were frustrated by the fact that at the other end of the beach we had trouble figuring out where the trail was.  Eventually, we followed what seemed to be a barely defined route which turned out to be another straight landslide of loose rocks leading almost vertically up from the beach.  While this eroded slope had no trail blazes, it seemed to be the only semi-obvious way back up off the beach.  The descent that immediately followed this challenging climb was no easier and essentially resulted in us sliding back to Praia Ingrina. 

Only a few feet onto the beach we once again found a trail-blazed post. We were forced to conclude that the unmarked route up and over the eroded slopes which we took had in the end been the correct path.  

Fishing, Snorkeling and Surfing at Praia Ingrina

Thankfully, and to our delight, just ahead of us there was a tiny café with a patio shaded by palm trees on this beach.  We ordered two fresh squeezed orange juices and gratefully sat in the shade, looking out at the white sand and the sea beyond.  As we rested there, several fishermen headed across the sand with their long fishing poles, while another dawned snorkelling gear and headed out into the shallows with what looked like a loop on a stick as a tool for capturing seafood. In addition to all of the fishing activities, during this time, two dozen hikers also passed us by - going in the opposite direction. 

Yellow-legged Gulls on Praia Ingrina on the Rota Vicentina

Blessedly, when we headed back onto the Rota Vicentina, we had a more gradual ascent back up onto the cliffs, following a slightly wider track.  Once on top, we could see people scattered among the sharp rocks below, fishing in the large waves, and we spotted several snorkelers in the bright blue waters along the shore. Large flocks of gulls and cormorants perched on the rocky shore confirming that this must have been a good spot for fishing. Crawling onto and balancing on such precarious coastal positions is more definitely beyond our ability, but the locals appeared to be quite skilled at doing so.

Praia do Barranco

By this point, we had about 8 km left to reach Sagres, our destination for tonight.  The walk to Praia do Barranco along the sun-soaked cliff tops offered stunning views, and wasn't too difficult.  There was however another steep, vertigo-inducing descent along an exhausting scree track to the beach, and then a climb back up the other side.  However, from this point onward the walking got somewhat easier. 

For the last stretch of today's hike, we headed inland over an extremely flat, grassy plateau. Here we followed a hard-packed track cut through open fields of grasses and wildflowers, which stretched out under an endless clear blue sky. The wind was strong once again, sweeping unstopped across the open plain and providing quite a bit of resistance, as well as a cooling breeze.

Farmhouses and Roman Settlements

Crossing this open plateau we noticed an abundance of snails.  They seemed to have climbed up and congregated on every available vertical surface and piece of vegetation.  The path was bordered by huge and elaborately shaped thistles, some of them the size of small cars.  Yet even these spiky plants were absolutely covered in a thick layer of snails.  It turns out these molluscs had climbed up, away from the hot soil and sand, to estevate in large groups until the next rain brought an end to the drought.

Trekking on, the trail again pulled away from the coastline taking us along a route that seemed more of an ATV tract than a trail.  Here the open landscape was broken by an abandoned farm that we stopped to explore.  A loose shutter was banging in the wind, and the smell of old cow dung hung heavy in the air inside the walls of the barn.  Nevertheless, it was fascinating to cautiously step inside and see exposed wooden beams and terra cotta roof tiles from below.  When we passed by the other side of the building we saw that a very talented artist had painted a mural of a butterfly on the back wall. 

According to the Fisherman’s Trail guidebook throughout this stretch, there is evidence of Neolithic human occupation and Roman settlement which includes water cisterns and furnaces.  Historians speculate that this area was likely chosen because of the availability of local clay pits and other natural resources.  Unfortunately, we did not come across any remains of these historical settlements.  

Praia dos Rebolinhos and Frogs

By this point, it was early afternoon – a period when most hikers would wish to be well into their day’s trek, rather than just starting it.  Nonetheless, as we approached our destination we passed a procession of very clean hikers who seemed to be part of a tour group just departing Sagres.  Several of them had very large backpacks on, which made us feel like kindred spirits.  

Pushing onwards into the wind we could soon see the red roofs and whitewashed buildings of Sagres ahead of us on the coast.  At this point, we passed another rock meditation spiral, which gave us a strong feeling of being on Camino.  This sentiment should be unsurprising, given that Sagres means Holy and was likely given this name because it is a small town at Europe's most southwesterly point.  For centuries this region has been held as sacred, and it was originally called the Promontorium Sacrum by the Romans, or the holy place at the end of the world. 

Yellow-legged Gulls welcoming us to Sagres, Portugal

Slowly we crossed the open plain and finally descended onto Praia dos Rebolinhos.  This rocky beach, tucked into an alcove between the cliffs, was located at the mouth of a stream.  Here a small pond, which was covered with a layer of duckweed so thick it could support a tadpole, awaited us at the bottom of the descent.  Even as we climbed down the cliff we could hear a very loud chorus of frogs coming from among the cattails at the edge of the pond.  I should mention at this point that this same location had been highlighted as a good place for bird watching, so we were excited to check it out.  Local guidebooks note this marshy area as a site where one can see Common Gallinule, Eurasian Coot, Moorhen, Egret, Purple Herons, a range of Warblers and Zitting Cisticola!  

White Wagtail in pond near Praia dos Rebolinhos, Portugal

White Stork flying overhead on beach at Sagres, Portugal

Unfortunately, despite our best efforts, we only caught sight of gulls flying past overhead and a pair of Marsh Wrens feeding nestlings amid the reeds and cattails.  Beyond these sightings, we had little luck.  For whatever reason, I have always found it challenging to locate and see species that I have never seen before – something about my mind not knowing what to spot or where to look.  Then again, mid-afternoon is never a great time to bird, and to make matters worse, several people let their dogs run loose along the waterway while we were investigating.  Nevertheless, one could easily see how this pond could be salinated during strong coastal storms making it perfect for the species that have adapted to these types of conditions. 

Ready to finish the day’s hike I was startled to hear Sean call out.  A few feet away he was focusing his birding lens on a small insect on a nearby rock.  I grabbed my binoculars and with a quick look realized that a scorpion was basking on the trail a few feet away.  This was our first sighting of such an intriguing creature! After our initial fears passed we became fascinated by the shape of his body, the prominent pinchers, and even the sharp barb at the end of its tail.  

Nature is amazing!

Surfing Praia do Martinhal 

Eventually, we made our final push up and over the last wall of cliffs, and down onto Praia do Martinhal.  This is one of the two main beaches at Sagres, and it was very full of people. We ploughed through the hot, blindingly white sand in front of the Martinhal Sagres Beach Family Resort, providing an entertaining spectacle for the people in bikinis and man thongs lounging in the shade of the private beach reserved for resort guests. Others on the beach were sunbathing, or playing on rented kayaks, windsurfers, and surfboards.  Undoubtedly we had quite the look – covered in dust and sweat - as we trekked across a beach full of well-dressed, athletic surf instructors and their students. 

It was very hot going, and we made a b-line for the Nortada Beach Bar in the hopes of finding water or cold ice tea, but the patio was packed solid and closed to the public for a private function.  On we ploughed, feeling like we were getting sandblasted as the wind blowing out to sea whipped up sand from the beach. Eventually, we made it onto a wooden boardwalk along which we followed the blue and green trail blazes into town past several rows of hotels and resorts. 

We finally had the opportunity to stop at the first bar in Sagres that we came to.  Here we promptly drank two bottles of iced tea while sitting in the shade of the patio.  It was a relief to be out of the baking sun, and the longer we sat the more we felt like we could happily remain there for the rest of the day.  Beyond the shelter of the patio, we could see many well-dressed tourists promenading past, and nearly half a dozen tour buses headed through the roundabout and towards the Sagres lighthouse as we rested. 

Sagres Global Connections

Today Sagres is a major tourist destination, a mecca for surfers throughout the year, and an annual hotspot for ornithologists during migration season.  As a result, a fact highlighted by travel guidebooks and online resources, Sagres is a town dominated by tourism, with tourist amenities and tourist prices. 
Yet this community of around 1,800 people holds another claim to fame as its coastline, ports and Fortaleza de Sagres were essential to the success of Portugal’s Age of Discovery in the 15th and 16th centuries.  

Following the capture of the North African city of Ceuta in 1415, King Dom Joao’s fourth son, Prince Infante D Henrique, also known as Henry the Navigator (1394-1460) set out to protect the Portuguese coastline and find the source of the west African gold trade.  To these ends, Henry established a school for navigation and a shipyard which built lighter ships with different styles of sails capable of sailing farther. These developments would allow Gil Eanes in 1434 to navigate past Cape Bojado, which had long been the maritime boundary for Europe.  The result would be the opening up of Africa, an expansion in trade arriving into the Algarve region, and the beginnings of Portuguese Imperialism.   In the decades that followed, these achievements would be expanded upon when in 1498 Vasco da Gama reached India, and later in 1500 when Pedro Alvares Cabral colonized Brazil.  

Beyond its history, Sagres sits at the western end of the world's longest straight-line path over land.  This 11,241 km long theoretical line connects Sagres to the port town of Jinjiang in the People's Republic of China.  Geographic and historical connections abound here on the Rota Vicentina. 

Resort town, Resort Prices

Eventually, we managed to tear ourselves away from the lovely shaded patio and walked down the main street of town and out the other end to the tourist apartment we had reserved for the night.  En route, the way was lined with cafés, restaurants, boutique shops selling beach wear, souvenir stores, and many shops for clothing and gear related to surfing.  Although it was a pleasant street, we could have been in a typical seaside town nearly anywhere - there wasn't much sign of Portugal itself beneath the tourism. 

We located and checked into our accommodations at the Apartamentos Turisticos Tonel, a sprawling modern establishment on the edge of town. Here, frustratingly we were given a room with a twin bed and with no chairs or any other type of furniture to sit on.  While it was both modern and impeccably clean, the room was entirely impractical for two exhausted people who not only wanted to sit (on something other than the bed) but who needed someplace to hang up laundry.  In the end, we simply hand-washed our clothes in the sink and placed our hiking poles over the window to hang them to dry.  While this is not the first time that we have rigged up our clothes in this manner, it reaffirmed our long-held belief that smaller and cheaper quintas often have more practical amenities than the more expensive and professional hotels.  Despite these minor challenges, we enjoyed our refreshing showers, rested on the bed for a brief period, and then headed out to explore Sagres.  

Our first goal was to get to the supermarcado and purchase something for breakfast in the morning, as well as a few snacks for the coming days on the trail.  We were stunned by the prices, which were about three to four times higher than what they would have been in a typical shop catering to local Portuguese people.  Ultimately, for 2 packs of Mr. Noodles, a package of cookies, and some bread we paid an exorbitant 30 Euros. Shocked, we dropped off our groceries at the hotel before heading out to dinner.

In seeking out an evening meal we eventually visited Three Little Birds, an establishment which we had heard about and which had terrific reviews.  This tiny and eclectic restaurant advertised vegetarian options and was extremely busy when we got there.  The food was fantastic, but again, the prices were incredibly high for Portugal – ultimately we paid 56 Euros for a small bowl of olives (we were charged for this typical bar snack), two veggie burgers, and two beers! In addition, the waitress demanded (an experience we have never had in Portugal) a tip for her service.  Looking around the establishment as we left it was clear that we had walked into a very touristimo destination.  

Thinking that it was just our perspective on the situation, we later discovered a note in the Rota Vicentina guidebook advising that people should wait to purchase supplies in Vila do Bispo (tomorrow’s hiking destination) to avoid tourism prices.  Even reviews of both the supermarcado and the Three Little Birds restaurant highlighted them as being at the centre of a tourism hotspot which surfers used as a jump point for regional exploration.  The result of its popularity is that Sagres is an expensive town.  Ah well, what is done is done…one can only live and learn … and perhaps read ahead more often.

Reflecting on the Rota Vicentina

We end today very grateful for good weather, for the safe passage through a challenging section of trail, and for the availability of good food.  By the day’s conclusion, despite the constant climbs and descents, we had the feeling that heading from south to north had made this section of the Fisherman’s Trail easier for us.  Many of the stretches that we climbed would definitely NOT have wanted to have descended.  I am not sure whether the Portuguese just have not discovered switchbacks, or simply have a disdain for them.  However, it seems that the sections of their paths which do go up and downhill take the most direct route rather than zigzagging over the terrain as many trails in North America do. We have seen countless examples of direct routes along the Rota Vicentina so far, as well as in trails leading down to local beaches and fishing spots. The inevitable result is that many coastal pathways are nearly vertical and are heavily eroded.  

With that said, however, ending the day in a tourist town has left us with a lot to think about.  We are the first to admit that we benefit from everyone speaking fluent English, and from having abundant vegetarian food options in the restaurants.  In addition, clearly, tourism is an important part of the local economy.  However, the traditional warmth, hospitality, and culture of the Portuguese people seem to have mostly been pushed aside here.  Undoubtedly this happens in popular places with sandy beaches and tropical climates all over the world.  Tourists come in expecting to experience their idea of a perfect beach vacation, which is shaped by their own expectations and cultures.  Personally, when travelling I prefer to discover new experiences and try to understand a little of the uniqueness and character of the places I am visiting. While Sagres undoubtedly has a lot to offer, including gorgeous beaches and scenery, it is no surprise tonight that I find myself looking forward to less touristy destinations further along the trail. 

See you on the Trail!