Birding the Fisherman’s Trail: Sagres to Vila do Bispo

Birding the Fisherman's Trail

Birds along the Rota Vicentina

Festival observacao de aves

Today is May 1st, which is a holiday here in Portugal.  While usually this gives way to challenges when hiking or on pilgrimage in Spain and Portugal, the fact is that in this region some things may stay open in the tourist oceanside towns.  However, we couldn't be certain, and in any case, we are still in the habit of leaving early, before most cafés and bars open in the morning.  As a result, we began the day enjoying the croissants we bought yesterday and the instant coffee that we made in our room. 

A little after 7 AM we headed out into a gloriously cool morning (15°C) which is almost perfect weather with a backpack on.  The sky above the ocean was stained a soft pink by the rising sun, and the streets were still sleepy and quiet, with few people out and about yet. Even so, we passed a man watering his garden wearing jeans, a sweater, a down jacket, and a woollen hat who looked at us like we were crazy.  Since 15°C is considered cold in Portugal, the look may have been because we were wearing shorts, t-shirts, and hiking sandals.  Or maybe it was the size of our backpacks ... or just the idea of hiking in general ... sometimes it is hard to tell where the root of the skepticism lies when pursuing an activity with no logical purpose. 

According to the topographical map in the Rota Vicentina guidebook, today’s trek would be along an almost flat route that promised to be much less strenuous than our hikes from Lagos to Salema and from Salema to Sagres.  Setting out from Sagres toward Vila do Bispo, we passed a mural full of birds for the Festival observacao de aves.  This celebration is held annually in October, and during this time you can reportedly see more than 2000 Eurasian Griffon Vultures soaring at once!  In addition, this region is known as one of Europe’s birding hotspots throughout the year, as it is situated on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, it is geographically near the Mediterranean as well as the African coast, and it is part of Continental Europe.  Furthermore, the lands throughout the Algarve are fertile, varying between inland forests and agricultural properties, which together offer a diversity of habitats and refuelling possibilities for birds.  Excited for what we might spot, and with my binoculars clipped to the front of my backpack, we continued on.

Fortaleza de Sagres 

The Rota Vicentina followed the edge of a paved road out of town, swung around a roundabout, and soon diverted towards the coast.  When we reached the water's edge we could see the white stone walls of the huge Fortaleza de Sagres perched high atop the cliffs on a spit sticking out into the ocean.  This imposing fortress was built in the 15th century by Infante D. Henrique to defend against pirates, and for several centuries it was considered to be the central component of the region's coastal defence system.  The fort had a long and colourful history, including being attacked by the infamous corsair (privateer) Francis Drake in 1587.  Today, the fortress is home to the Museum of Portuguese Discoveries.  Also within its walls are a giant compass rose, measuring 43 m in diameter, and the Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Graça.  

Unfortunately, we didn't get a chance to visit the inside of the Fortaleza Sagres, so we had to content ourselves with viewing it as the pirates would have - from outside its walls.  As we made our way along the coast we found ourselves climbing gently in a wide open landscape without any hills or undulations, as though we were crossing a large plateau that had been slightly tipped up on one end.  We could see up and down the coast in both directions, giving us a wonderful opportunity to admire the complex and highly interesting coastal geology of the area. 

As we walked, we were surrounded by a riot of colour, from bright green shrubs to tall dry grasses to white rocks sporting orange lichens, as well as patches of yellow, pink, purple, and white wildflowers.  The trail cut a terracotta red ribbon through the knee-high vegetation, under a clear blue sky, and to our left, the bright red cliffs plunged into a sea that shone almost brighter than the sky above. 

As we pushed forward into the relentless wind, we took many opportunities to stop and enjoy the view.  We also spent quite a bit of time watching large groups of gulls wheeling and diving along the cliffs and tried to follow the erratic and speedy flights of the swallows zooming in and out of the caves. 

Birds of the Algarve

As already noted, the area around Sagres is known as one of the best locations in Europe for observing migratory seabirds, especially during the fall.  This conjunction of birds is the result of a unique combination of the region’s topography, proximity to Africa and Europe, as well as the seas of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean.   In addition, the Algarve hosts a range of inland cork forests and expansive wheat fields which support bird life.  

Large White-headed Gulls soaring above Sagres, Portugal

Species that can be viewed here include Scopoli's Shearwater, Great Black-backed Gulls, Great Skuas, Sandwich Terns and many more. The Algarve province includes 10 IBAs or Important Bird Areas, is 40% protected, and has had more than 385 bird species reported in recent years, including a diverse range of coastal, sea and migratory species.  

Today’s trek between Sagres and Vila do Bispo would lead us to pass through a number of amazing birding hotspots, including St. Vincent, Vale Santo, Monte da Cabranosa, Porto da Baleeira, and Laoa do Martinhal – each of which is noted as sites for great birding in the spring and fall seasons. 

Needless to say, although it isn't fall right now, we still kept a sharp lookout as we made our way along the coast.  Apparently, in good weather, it is also possible to see dolphins playing in the clear blue waters near the shore.  In addition, there is an isolated population of Red-billed Chough nesting in the cliffs, which we also kept a lookout for.  To our delight, we spot the nesting Red-billed Chough in the cliffs, which were mixed in with a flock of very active House Sparrows.  We were also serenaded by the soft coos of Eurasian Collard-Doves, and accompanied by the ubiquitous European Stonechats.

Coastal Trekking 

Looking along the coast, we could see the red and white outline of the famous Capo S. Vicente lighthouse up ahead of us.  The lighthouse is situated far out on a rocky promontory, and it would be our goal for the first half of the day.  It is the spot where many southbound hikers on the Rota Vicentina choose to end their walks.  Approaching the lighthouse, it was easy to how it would make an impressive place to end. Cabo de São Vicente is the southwesternmost point of Portugal and of mainland Europe.  It has been considered sacred since Neolithic times, being seen as the boundaries of the world by the Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs and Europeans for centuries. 

Venturing on, the ground soon changed from hard-packed red dirt to a field of rocks.  It felt like partially eroded limestone that had been exposed by the elements, forming a blanket of ridges and lumps.  For a while, we followed an open path between the sharp, jutting rocks, but the footpath seemed to disappear, and soon we had to focus on our feet to pick our way through these small obstacles. The familiar blue and green blazes were painted onto the rocky ground, which was a bit difficult to spot.  Luckily, many of the blazes were highlighted by rock cairns as well, which helped keep us on track.

Toward Finis Terre 

Soon we arrived at the sandy crescent of Praia do Beliche.  A small group of homes was located nearby, with a bar and restaurant, although it was still too early for either to be open.  At the beachhead, a small group of camper vans was parked, with some of the occupants just beginning to show signs of starting their day.  Apparently, this used to be the site of a small fishing village in the 16th century, but now it has become a popular destination for surfers.  As though to emphasize this point, both the parking areas and roadsides throughout this stretch were filled with vans and RVs, many with surfboards attached to their roofs. While researching the Rota Vicentina several websites noted the popularity of beach parking lots for travelling nomads and cited that overnight camping and wild camping were illegal.  However, it was abundantly clear that little was being done to enforce these stipulations.   

A nearby sign indicated that Praia do Beliche was one of Portugal's Blue Flag beaches.  This international designation is awarded to beaches that meet certain criteria for safety, water quality, facilities, sustainable development, and sound environmental management.  The award is given every year by the Foundation for Environmental Education.  It seems like this program is part of the push to promote nature tourism in the Algarve region as a way of protecting the natural heritage against overdevelopment.  A wonderful idea in my opinion!

In keeping with the theme of nature protection, as we walked along the paved road above Praia do Beliche, we spotted a dirt track heading off away from the coast into a vast scrubby landscape.  Here there were information plaques along the path which were dedicated to birding the Parque Natural da Costa Vicentina e Sudouest e Alentejano!  The first sign pointed out that while the Cabo S. Vicente Peninsula is famous for migratory seabirds, it is a fantastic place to see hundreds of other migratory species as well, including Common Nightingales, Common Redstarts, Common Whitethroats, Garden Warblers, Willow Warblers, Pied Flycatchers, and others.  Many songbirds use the peninsula as their last resting place before making the 400 km ocean crossing to North Africa to overwinter.  The next sign described the raptors that also pass through in the fall.  It made us wish both that we were visiting in fall, and that we could continue along the birding path.  So important is the coastline between Sagres and Cabo de S. Vincent that in 1988 it was classified as Sagres Biogenetic Reserve for being home to endemic species which are exclusive to this region.  This is the reason why each year Sagres hosts its popular Birdwatching Festival.  

With dreams of being here during the annual migration season bouncing through our heads, we realized that it was time to make our way back to the cliffs and out to Cabo St. Vincent.  As we continued out towards the lighthouse, at times following the edge of the paved road and at the others walking a dedicated footpath along the cliff edges, we noticed that our route now overlapped with the Via Algarviana (GR 13), a 300 km long path through the Algarve region stretching from Alcoutim in eastern Portugal to Cabo S. Vicente in the west.  Also joining us here at the lighthouse is another portion of the Rota Vicentina named The Historical Way, which is marked using the red and white blazes of Europe's GR (grand rondonée) routes.  The Historical Way – or inland version of the Fisherman’s Trail - also begins or ends at Cabo St. Vincent and falls more closely in line with the way pilgrims on their way to Fatima or Santiago de Compostella might have walked. 

Fortaleza do Beliche

As we made our way along the top of the big reddish-yellow cliffs of the peninsula, getting ever closer to the lighthouse, we first came to Fortaleza do Beliche.  We could see its light sandstone-coloured walls perched on the edge of the cliffs ahead of us.  As we approached the gates, a car on the road slowed down, and a surfer stuck his head out the window and told Sean to make a visit to the fort because there were great opportunities for photos and it is a popular spot for people to enjoy the sunset.  Thanking them, we walked on. 

The exact date when the Fortaleza do Beliche was built is unknown, but it was already present in the 16th century since it bears the coat of arms of King D. Sebastião.  Likely it was constructed to protect the local tuna fishery, which was subject to constant attacks by pirates from North Africa.  In 1587 the fort was badly damaged in an attack led by the British corsair Sir Francis Drake, but it was rebuilt in the 1630's.  It was also damaged in the earthquake of 1755, which hit on Nov. 1, All Saint's Day, killing tens of thousands of people from Lisbon down to the Algarve region.  It is believed the earthquake reached 8.7-9 on the Richter scale, and it was followed by a tsunami that reached 10 m in height.  This devastating event gave rise to the first scientific studies of the effects of earthquakes on wide areas, marking the birth of modern seismology. 

When we reached the remains of the fort we could see that it had been partially restored and turned into a guesthouse.  However, it is now temporarily closed because the cliffs upon which it sits are eroding and giving way. We walked through the gates, peeked into the internal courtyard, and stepped out onto the walkway along the cliff side, but that was about as far as we were able to explore. 

After leaving the fort we followed the long, exposed, paved road out to the end of the peninsula.  Although the lighthouse is closed on Mondays, there was already a relatively steady stream of vehicles heading out to the point.  When we reached the end of the drive we saw that vendors were beginning to set up their stalls for the day, selling colourful handmade knotted cloth rugs, woollen knitted sweaters, and German bratwurst, among other things. 

Thekla's Lark outside Forte de Beliche in Sagres, Portugal

Cabo de Sao Vicente 

There were several cars and camper vans parked outside the closed gates of the lighthouse, and quite a few tourists milling about when we arrived.  Another hiker stopped and asked if Sean would take his photo at the sign - a huge smile of accomplishment lighting up his sunburnt and weathered face.  We looked through the sturdy red metal gates into the courtyard beyond, and up at the light, which reminded us a bit of the one at Cape Spear, Newfoundland at the beginning of the 28,000 km long Trans Canada Trail and a stop along the East Coast Trail.

Cabo de Sao Vicente, or the Cape St. Vincent headland that the large, modern lighthouse sits upon was for thousands of years the limits of the known world.  People have settled here for centuries, including Phoenicians, and then the Greeks, who dedicated the land to Heracles and called it Ophiussa (land of serpents).  Next came the Romans, who called it Promotorium Sacrum or the Holy Promontory.  After them, the Arabs arrived, who held this region in regard, naming it Kanisah al’Ghurab meaning “Church of the Raven.”  Later on, European explorers deemed this spit of land as either 'Mare incognitum' or Finis Terrae - the End of the World.  

In addition to this fascinating history, there is a legend associated with Cabo São Vicente that is curiously similar to the one associated with Santiago de Compostella, Spain.  Apparently, the remains of Saint Vincent, who was martyred in the year 304, were washed ashore on the cape in the 8th century, accompanied by two crows.  In the centuries that followed the cult of São Vicente became so important that after taking Lisbon back from the Moors, D. Afonso Henrique had the relics of S. Vicente exhumed and transported to the larger city in 1173.  São Vicente, or Saint Vincent a Christian martyr, is now the patron saint of Lisbon. 

In many ways, this area of land feels like one of those wonderful places where history and the past are closer to the surface, and where one can find layers of historical understanding in the landscape and culture of the region.  Indeed, even the nature and geology of this area are unique, a fact which has been acknowledged when it was classified as the Sagres Biogenic Reserve several years ago.  Today, it is home to an imposing lighthouse (reputed to be one of the most powerful in Europe) that stands atop the 60-meter-tall cliffs on the Atlantic coastline overlooking one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes.  

European Trails, Historical Ways and Caminos

Just outside the lighthouse, there was a cluster of trail signs including a large metal 'km 0' marker for the E9 route.  This is one of Europe's long-distance hiking trails, extending more than 9,880 km from Narva-Jõesuu, Estonia to Cabo S. Vicente, Portugal.  Upon further investigation, we discovered Cabo S. Vicente is or will also be an ending/starting for E4, E9 and the developing E12.  

Interestingly, this location was also on the EuroVelo 1 Atlantic Coast, which is over 11,000 km long and visits 6 different European countries spanning from Cabo de Sao Vicente Portugal to North Cap Norway!  Standing here looking at the trailheads for so many pathways, it was exciting to consider the possibilities and dream about future adventures. 

Shifting Perspectives, Shifting Directions

While we loved the Cape of St. Vincent, and could easily understand why those trekking south along the Rota Vicentina would choose to conclude their hikes here, our arrival was somewhat frustrating by the fact that the gates to the popular tourist attraction were locked and we were not able to enter the historical lighthouse.  In true Portuguese fashion, today was a Monday and the facility was closed to the public.  And so having explored what we could, and taken a break, we set off as a stream of full tour buses and visitors in RVs, caravans, and cars began to park along both sides of the peninsula roadway.

By this point, we were almost halfway done today’s stage, and yet it was only 9:45 AM.  With only about 10 km to go to reach Vila do Bispo, we were a good 5-6 hours early for check-in. Either we needed to slow down or decide to abandon our reservation and hike on.  

Turning Northwards 

Heading north up Portugal’s western coastline – a clear point of transition - the trail paralleled the increasingly busy roadway. Watching as more and more vehicles poured onto the peninsula, it was hard to equate this tourist-filled region with the sacred history that this location had long held, or with the natural beauty of the peninsula and ocean nearby. Continuing along the Fisherman’s Trail, the stretch of pathway that followed wove through scrub and between small piles of rock.  This meant that we had to increasingly watch our feet in order to avoid tripping or stumbling.  Amid this exposed landscape we found our way to Portugal’s western coastline.

The open landscape in front of us was only rarely broken up by sedge plants and tough shrubby vegetation, so we enjoyed stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean and a panoramic preview of the terrain that we would follow for the next 8 days.  Pushing northwards, the track became less evident, while at the same time, the green and blue painted blazes seemed harder to find on the ground. Thankfully, we were able to follow a series of small stone cairns to ensure that we were still heading in the right direction.  

All Creatures Great and Small

Given the terrain and the fact that we spent much of our time in this section watching the ground and our footing, we were intrigued to notice long lines of ants crossing the trail.  Some of the lines were eight or nine ants wide and about 20 feet in length.  It made us very curious as to what all the activity was about.  In addition, we also soon discovered a high diversity of beetles.  There were small round ones burrowing through the soft sand, larger ones clinging to the vegetation, and in some stretches, almost every single flower had a beetle in attendance! 

We were so impressed by the scope and industriousness of the ant’s efforts and the fascinating insect activity along the trail that we sought to step over their vast projects and endeavours as we shared the pathway.

The end result of us seeing so many new beetles was that both of us were soon on our knees trying to ID and photograph them.  As fate would have it, at this same time a line of southbound trekkers marched past us, and we could hear one of them mumble to their wife “and that dear is why you should bring lots of water on hikes like this.  You don’t want to go odd like that!”  While I am sure we did look odd to those walking past, the fact is that an interest in birds necessitates a concern for insect life and habitat conservation as well.  In addition, I also think that bugs are cool – especially when you get a really good look at them and the magnitude of their efforts!

Praia do Telheiro

When we reached Praia do Telheiro we spotted quite a few surfers down below on the beach and noticed that the geology had once again changed as well.  The guidebook describes the view from the top of the cliffs as one of the raised beaches, which are places of coastal erosion that occurred at a time when the sea level was much higher. Below these deposits is the bright red Silves sandstone, which is more than 200 million years old.  Finally, at the base of the cliffs were 300 million-year-old schist and greywacke that looked like folded and broken 'roots' of an ancient mountain range.  

The gorgeous scenery and interesting geology made for a pleasant walk.  However, as the morning wore on the temperature began to rise and the breeze died down.  As we climbed down into a shallow treed valley and back up the other side we began to see other hikers, many of whom looked equally warm on the exposed coast.  A lot of people walk south from Porto Covo on the Fishermen’s Trail, or south from Santiago do Cacém in the Historical Way to finish at Cabo S. Vicente. Having hiked for several days from Lagos without seeing too many people trekking the Rota Vicentina, we were soon shocked at the sheer numbers heading toward us.  

European Stonechat singing near Praia do Telheiro

Corn Bunting along the Rota Vicentina, Portugal

In fact, at several points throughout the day, we came across groups of dozens of hikers, all marching either shoulder to shoulder across the entire pathway or in a long line about a foot apart.  In total, we would see 84 southbound trekkers and 4 cyclists on the trail today, which was a big increase from what we had been seeing over the last couple of days.  For the first time in our short experience the Fisherman’s Trail we found it extraordinarily busy.

Leaving the Algarve Coast

About an hour after leaving the lighthouse at Cabo St. Vicente, the trail turned inland away from the Atlantic coastal cliffs, and we found ourselves walking a hard dirt track alongside fenced pastures filled with sheep and cows. A distant mountain range rose up in the hazy distance, while an ewe and her lamb captured our attention as they wandered about and inspected us.   

Challengingly, this track led us across an open landscape devoid of any shade.  The exposed walk in the afternoon sun felt as though we’d stepped into an oven.  Where previously we’d enjoyed an occasional ocean breeze, now there was none.   With the sun high in the sky, the trek inland was utterly airless – so much so that any doubts we had of taking the inland Historical Way rather than the Fisherman’s Trail in certain sections were immediately banished.

Vila do Bispo Portugal

As we made our way along the hot road for the final few kilometres of the day’s stage we soon spotted a tall water tower standing above the town, as well as the red roofs of Vila do Bispo, which were folded into a dip among the rolling hills around it.  This was our goal for the night, and although it was only 5 km from both Salema and Sagres, it was not on the coast, which made us hope it might be a little less touristy.  To our great delight, Vila do Bispo was a quiet and welcoming community. 

Vila do Bispo is a peaceful and remote village whose name literally translates into “the Bishop’s town”.  It was given this name during the 17th century when the village was gifted to the Bishop of Faro.  Entering into the quiet community we followed the trail markers to the main square, which had several bars and restaurants, a central cobblestone area, and a small, grassy park with a large war memorial.  In addition to these amenities and monuments a stunning yellow and white baroque church, the Nossa Senhora de Conceicao stood at the centre of town.  While it was unfortunately closed when we visited, this church is apparently decorated with beautiful Azulejos (Portuguese Tiles) from the floor to the ceiling!

There were still several hours before we could check in to our guesthouse at 4 pm, so we found a small cafe.  The outdoor patio at the Snack Bar Zig Zag was packed solid with people eating large plates of delicious-smelling food for lunch.  We squeezed into a table inside in the shade and had two iced teas, two orange juices, and a slice of traditional Portuguese cake.  We were intrigued to see that a number of people on the patio were wearing binoculars and bird-themed clothing, and several of them were distracted by the swallows nesting under the eaves. 

We spent as much time as possible in the tiny café,, and using their wifi discovered that our accommodations were 1 km outside of town. Originally when we booked our room they indicated they were 'right on the trail' which is true, we just didn't realize they were on the Historical Way and not on the Fishermen’s Trail.  Fortunately, this didn't matter too much and we were simply grateful to have found a place for the night, as everything else has been booked for the last week.

Resting, Relaxing, and Reflecting

Having spent a fair amount of time in the cafe, we wandered back to the main square.  We still had over an hour left before we could check in to our accommodations, and not knowing what else do to, we found another bar to sit in.  Here we chatted about the day, read about the trail, and continued to relax.  As we had hoped, the staff in these places spoke Portuguese, they served more traditional Portuguese food, and they seemed much happier - laughing and joking with the customers, and enjoying life.  Beyond this, we were excited to discover that the prices of everything were once again reasonable.  Tourism was certainly not the prevailing aspect of Vila do Bispo.

In walking between destinations, whether on a pilgrimage route or a traditional trail, I feel that I am always struggling to find the balance between being able to locate amenities while also being able to explore the local culture.  Where the line is between tourism and exploration, however, I have never been able to decide.  

Finally, around 3:30 we headed down the paved road out of town to the guesthouse. It turned out to be a beautiful property with a large and extremely well-landscaped garden.  This immediately raised my hopes of seeing a hedgehog, but there was no such luck.  The owners were very nice, and we soon had our showers, did our laundry, and were sitting out on the porch in the sun, enjoying the garden.  Another hiker and a pair of French cyclists arrived over the course of the evening and soon each of us had taken up a space on the outside veranda to enjoy the cooler temperatures.  As evening set in, we made pasta in the very well-equipped kitchen in the basement and watched the extremely active House Sparrow nests in the tall palm trees around the property as we ate.  

Eurasian Collard-Dove in the square in Vila do Bispo

House Sparrows nesting in a palm tree in the guesthouse garden

Today’s hike westward from Sagres to Cabo de Sao Vicente and then onto Vila do Bispo was unforgettable.  The coastal panoramas, clear blue water, open skies, historical forts, and impressive lighthouse were all stunning to behold.  Beyond the heat of the day and lack of shade along the route, the trail was easy to follow and trek along, making for one of our shortest and easiest hiking days on the Rota Vicentina.  Having left the resorts and tourist centers of the southern Algarve behind and turned north, we wonder how the trail experience will change.  I suppose this is something we will see in the coming 8 days on the Rota Vicentina.  

After a gorgeous sunset, we turned in, thankful for a quiet night in the countryside, and for another gorgeous day on the trail.  From today onward we have ceased our westward trajectory and are now headed northward to Porto Covo, Lisbon, Porto and Santiago de Compostella!

See you on the Trail!