Portugal's Fisherman’s Trail : Lagos to Salema

Portugal's Fisherman's Trail

Rota Vicentina Thru-Hike

Today was our first full day of hiking on the Rota Vicentina and so we made a relatively early start.  Partly we were excited to get going, and partly we were a little concerned about trekking 23 km on rugged coastal terrain that we anticipated could be challenging.  Our day’s planned itinerary was from Lagos to Salema, and although the guidebook described the walk as easy, it also suggested that it could be done in two stages with a stop in Luz, halfway through. In addition, while we have completed long-distance hikes in the past, it has been a few months since we trekked with backpacks on.  And so, in setting out, we were two people going straight from desk to quest who assumed it would take a little time to get into the rhythm of the trail. 

So, with all this in mind, we set off around 7 AM in search of an open cafe for a quick breakfast.  We had found several establishments online that were listed as being open early on Saturdays, but there was no luck.  We wandered the quiet cobblestone streets and navigated our way through the twisting roads of modern Lagos neighbourhoods, looking for signs of life.  Unfortunately, all we found were tightly shuttered cafes and street sweepers in their bright yellow vests.  

As we made our way back the 5 or 6 km to the trail we passed wellness clinics, spas, and exclusive resorts.  En route, the soft morning light gradually brightened until the sun poked its face above the horizon and turned the sea to gold.  It was a partially cloudy morning with a strong, cooling breeze, which was very welcome.  It promised to be a gorgeous day with terrific weather to go for a hike. 

Natural Landscapes 

By 8:30 AM we had reached yesterday’s point of departure, the beautiful Praia de Porto Mos.  At this early hour, the only people on the beach were us and a dozen camper vans loaded with surfboards on the top.  This parking lot, as so many in the Algarve are, apparently hosts overnight surfers living the van life.  While we had been warned that it was illegal and that we should not attempt to camp on any of the beaches along the Rota Vicentina, it was also clear from online resources that such activities were not unusual either – at least within the surfing community.  

Despite the number of vans in the parking lot, however, the beach of Porto Mos was blissfully peaceful.  We were thankful for this, as one of the reasons that we have set out to hike the Rota Vicentina is the fact that it is described as being primarily in nature rather than in crowded cities.  By extension, we hope that it is quieter and less busy than many of the European trails and Camino routes that we have ventured on in the past few years. At this point in our lives, after more than a dozen pilgrimages across four countries, it is solitude in nature that we are searching for. 

Hiking the Rota Vicentina

Crossing the beach we were immediately greeted with a green and blue blaze for the Fisherman’s Trail as well as a sign noting that the coming stretch was along Arribas Instaveis – or unstable cliffs.  My only thought upon seeing this sign was, “well you wanted nature, and nature is neither paved nor straightforward.”  And so with this in mind we began a steep climb up to the cliff tops, slowly making our way along the hard-packed red earthen trail.  En route, we stopped frequently to both look along the Algarve coast and to catch our breaths.  The red of the worn pathway, the stunning blue of the ocean, and the whitewashed buildings of Lagos all contrasted wonderfully.

  

We continued to climb steadily, seeing quite a few joggers and walkers out for a morning stroll as we went. At intervals the sun broke through the clouds, sending shafts of light down onto the city behind us like a spotlight.  Ahead of us, we could see the coast stretching out, its long promontories sticking like fingers as they receded into the distance.  On the farthest cape, we could just make out the lighthouse at Sagres through the binoculars.  With any luck, we will be there in two days.  It felt a lot like walking the East Coast Trail in Newfoundland, another footpath where we always had a preview of what was coming ahead on the Atlantic coast. 

Seascapes and Geology 

Up and up we climbed, the bright azure and blue sea receding farther and farther below.  Occasionally we would see a fishing boat, chugging along like a tiny white spec on the glittering blue expanse that stretched to the horizon.  Perhaps most impressive were the cliffs themselves, the red and golden yellow layers adding vibrant colour to the landscape. 

Mediterranean Gull soaring along the coast at Lagos, Portugal

Sardinian Warbler perched along Rota Vicentina near Luz

The geology of this region is amazing, making me very much wish that I had the ability to read the history of a place through its rock formations.  Apparently, the cliffs between Lagos and Luz tell interesting stories about the Middle Cretaceous period of Earth's history, when the dinosaurs were going extinct.  Patches of white limestone are mixed with strips of black volcanic rock, while in other areas reddish sandstone layers have been sculpted by erosion into interesting caves and unexpected shapes.  These include the 'giant's kettles' which occur at the base of the cliffs, where the tide has created an elaborate network of fractures and cavities. 

In some stretches the cliffs appeared strongly layered.  Apparently, the layered strata contain interesting fossils of marine gastropods, bivalves, plants, and other life forms dating back 100 million years.  These strongly coloured, horizontally striped sections occasionally had vertical bands of black which represented volcanic chimneys. Volcanic activity in the area occurred 75 million years ago when the Iberian Peninsula hit Africa and the tectonic plates collided. 

Snakes and Birds

We were enjoying the stunning coastal scenery when suddenly we crested a rise and could see the white buildings of Luz stretched out in a crescent shape below us, beyond the towering cliffs.  As we crossed the highest point we could no longer see Lagos or the manicured resorts on the outskirts of town behind us.  After pausing to take in the view, we had taken only a few steps when one of the largest snakes we've ever seen in the wild shot across the trail and dove into a shrub, thrashing its long tail frantically as it tried to flee.  It was difficult to tell which of us was more startled by the encounter! 

During our clifftop hike towards Luz, we also encountered quite a bit of bird life in the still morning air. European Stonechats gave their pebble-like calls from the low shrubs, while the ubiquitous Sardinian Warblers watched us with great curiosity.  We also spotted our first Thekla's Lark, which made for a very exciting morning!

As we approached Luz we began to see more people walking up on the cliffs or leaning on the wooden railings and enjoying the view out over the clear blue ocean.  Eventually, we came to a tall, white and black concrete obelisk marker, and then began a rather steep descent down a shrub-covered hill into Luz. To be honest, the sole virtue of this unnerving descent into Luz was that we did not have to climb it.  Navigating our way down the hillside was an unpleasant experience for two people still unsteady on their feet with large backpacks.  Fortunately for us, the dirt footpath that we followed was slightly switchbacked and bordered on both sides with dense vegetation.  Unfortunately, this was the first of a number of similar climbs and descents that we would be challenged with today.  

Luz Portugal

At the bottom of the steep descent, the dirt footpath was replaced with a wide cobblestone laneway which we followed down to the ocean.  The way soon entered into town and was bordered by stone as well as stucco walls behind which stood large, modern homes with swimming pools, palm trees, and luxurious piles of blooming bougenvilia.  It was quite beautiful, and before we knew it we found ourselves on a tree-lined walkway beside the long sandy beach. 

Luckily for us, it was 9:30 AM by this point, and there were plenty of places open for a coffee and some breakfast.    Having not been able to find a morning repast in Lagos before setting out, and only having had a weak instant coffee in our hotel almost 11 km ago, we were both ready for something more sustaining.  While we would have been more than satisfied with a café com leite and croissant we soon found ourselves at Lazuli, a patio bar overlooking the ocean at the edge of town which had other enticing options. 

Seated under expansive umbrellas and the shade of palm trees overlooking the ocean, the establishment looked to be very posh, yet the staff were friendly and unphased by two sweaty hikers.  We soon discovered why.  While many well-to-do people from the surrounding neighbourhood came to enjoy a coffee and chat, as we sat there, more and more hikers who had spent the night in Luz also began to arrive.  Apparently, we were not so outlandish in our appearance or unexpected at this establishment as we originally thought.  We settled onto the shaded outdoor patio and were soon enjoying toast with avocado and poached eggs.  The staff even brought out dog bowls filled with cold water for those residents and hikers who were accompanied by their four-legged companions. As we sat there, a stream of hikers passed us, all trekking in the opposite direction to us - from north to south.  

Feeling extremely full after our excellent breakfast, we paid our bill and regretfully heaved our heavy backpacks on and continued our trek.  By this point, the restaurant was so full that when we stood to leave, a group of hikers walked up and asked to take our places.  As it turned out they were from Ottawa, Canada.  It seems like all the Canadians have travelled to Portugal at the moment, perhaps to escape the series of floods, snow storms, and forest fires that seem to be plaguing our home nation.  We were excited to discover that they were also birders and photographers, and had recently photographed an Osprey nearby, which seems to be somewhat of a rarity for Portugal. 

From the restaurant, the Rota Vicentina followed the cobblestone path along the edge of the beach.  The waterfront walkway was bordered by shops, restaurants, cafés and stalls on one side, while on the other it was bordered by a row of palm trees at the edge of the sand. Benches were placed among the palms, offering a stunning and shaded view out over the Atlantic.  The scene was so beautiful it almost seemed unreal. As we set off I began to wonder whether we shouldn’t have spent a night in this stunning seaside community.  

Eventually, the black and white patterned cobblestone path ended, and we found ourselves on a wide dirt road with the sea on our left and rows of lovely-looking white stucco beach homes climbing the slope on our right.  Soon we picked up the dirt trail and began climbing back up to the cliff tops high above us to begin the final 12 km of today’s trek to Salema. 

Along the Algarve Coast

The next stretch of the Fisherman’s Trail seemed to involve a lot of ups and downs on the exposed, sun-drenched cliff tops.  There were quite a few people out enjoying their Saturday morning, and we passed another wave of Rota Vicentina hikers coming in the other direction as well.  We were grateful for the breeze as the sun began to heat up the exposed landscape.  Just before we began the descent in Burgau, we spotted the remains of an old stone mill silhouetted against the clear blue sky in the hills above us. 

European Shag on rocks at Praia da Luz, Portugal

At times the trail ventured through carved passages amid the short stands of hedge.  Although it was very bright and hot, the cliff-top walk was quite beautiful.  An array of colourful and aromatic plants surrounded the trail on both sides, including dwarf palms, thyme, rosemary and lavender.  Apparently, it is also possible to find rare orchids and lilies, although we didn't recognize any amid the array of stunning wildflowers. Amid this landscape, even as the noon hour temperatures soared we still spotted the occasional European Stonechat and lark moving around in the dry, hot grass.

On the outskirts of the next community along the Rota Vicentina we entered the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina which spans from the village of Burgau in the south to Porto Covo in the north.  As such, we would remain in this national park tracing the Costa Vicentina and exploring its amazing geology, flora, fauna and bird life from today until almost the conclusion of our hike in another 10 days time.  This also meant that our trail would likely continue to provide stunning viewpoints along rugged cliffs, walks across deserted beaches, and only occasionally venture into town. 

Burgau Portugal

By the time we descended into the tiny community of Burgau, a distance of only about 6 km from Luz, we were ready for another break in the shade with something cold to drink.  The cost of following a trail amid such a wonderfully persevered wilderness is that there is little – if any – infrastructure between the towns.   We followed the narrow cobblestone street steeply downhill.  It was bordered on both sides by white homes trimmed in the deep blue, yellow, and red typical of this region.  Colourful terra cotta pots filled with succulents and blooming flowers gave additional colour, as did blooming bougenvila vines draped over pergolas, gateways, and garden walls. 

When we reached the beach we found a small snack bar perched on the corner of the road and overlooking the sandy coastline below.  Here we decided to step onto the shaded patio for a quick break.  It was very busy, and the proprietor seemed to be struggling to keep up with demand while rapidly running out of everything.  Sadly, there was no sumo de laranja left, but we enjoyed cold peach juice and a pastel de nata for good measure.  It felt infinitely better sitting in the shade, and we could happily have stayed there for the remainder of the day, watching people swim at the beach.  However, it was soon time to press on and give space to other hikers in search of a shady spot to rest.  

Westward on the Rota Vicentina

We had to climb steeply back up through town again, and somehow we managed to miss a turn.  Luckily we only ended up climbing one extra block before realizing our mistake, and then managed to find our way back.  At the edge of town, we picked up the narrow dirt footpath once again that took us back up onto the cliff tops.  At its beginning,g it was lined with enormous cacti!  We concentrated on not touching anything while squeezing through a short, narrow, tunnel of very spiky green foliage.  
When we reached the top the landscape was once again very colourful.  Large patches of yellow flowers blanketed the ground, mixed with patches of purple and white.  The colours popped against the dark glossy green of small palm trees and the soft, dusky, sea foam green of the lavender and sage. Amidst all of this colour there were plenty of birds as well, their songs clearly audible above the wind.  

Up and up we climbed, at times fairly steeply on the hard-packed dirt trail.  By this time the heat of the early afternoon was beating down, and we were very grateful for the cool and nearly constant breeze off the ocean.  Despite feeling very exposed, we once again enjoyed spectacular views up and down the coast, including the brightly coloured and strongly layered cliff faces. 

Unfortunately, what goes up must come down.  And so inevitably, we descended once again, to the Praia das Cabanas Velhas.  This was a small and relatively quiet beach tucked in between tall towering cliffs.   Here we decided to stop once again for a few minutes to cool off in the shade of a very nice beach bar, this time with tiny cups of freshly squeezed orange juice.  The Australian server encouragingly told us we were near Salema - it was just up and over two more hills. Of course.  Given that this was our first day on the trail, we were surprisingly feeling pretty good ... apart from the heat.  

Final Stretch to Salema

Again we climbed up the rocky, steep trail, this time beside a nice-looking pine stand.  Once again soaked and winded by the time we reached the top of the cliff, we were hoping to duck into the shade for a while, but no such luck.  Back on top of the Algarve coastal cliffs, we enjoyed views up and down the waterline, and to our surprise, we could again see the two towers and distinctive construction cranes behind us in Lagos! 

A nice surprise in this stretch of trail was coming upon the ruins of Forte de Almadena. Only the stone walls were left of the once mighty fort, perched high atop the cliffs.  The interpretive plaque explained that it was built in the 17th century by the Count of Prado, Governor of Algarve to defend the local fishing structures from pirates.  It was built on the site of a Roman temple to the god Neptune.  The fort was manned by 4-6 soldiers and equipped with canons pointed out to sea.

  

As we left the sun-soaked walls of the fort behind we could see the white crescent of Salema ahead of us in the distance.  Before reaching the night's destination, however, we still had to descend to Boca do Rio, and then climb over one last hill.  Frustratingly, the descent to the beach at Boca do Rio was steep and covered in loose rocks, making for slow going on wobbly and tired legs.  At one point it was possible to look straight down the cliff face between my feet to the river below, which was a little vertigo-inducing. Thankfully, we reached the bottom unscathed.  

Salema Portugal

The final part of today’s trek had a slightly different feel, as we headed inland a little.  The path was wider and flatter and bordered on both sides by shrubs.  Large rock cairns marked the way, which eventually led out to a winding paved road.  Once again we found ourselves descending a white cobblestone street downhill towards the beach.  

It was immediately obvious that Salema is a beautiful coastal town, and quite full of tourists.  We made our way to the main square, which was lined with hotels, restaurants, and shops, and fronted onto a large sandy beach.  Here we found a sign and map of the Rota Vincetina detailing the stage we had just completed as well as providing information for tomorrow’s trek from Salema to Sagres. Warm and thirsty we found a small cafe and split a 1.5 L bottle of water before each enjoying a cold beer while sitting in the shade and figuring out what to do next.

Despite online advice to make reservations in advance, we had hoped to get a feel for the trail first to see what distances we could reasonably cover each day.  We soon began to worry that this had been a mistake. It is Saturday night, and everything in the town seemed to be booked, except for a nearby resort, which had rooms for a staggering 273 Euros.   We had been thinking we could camp, but the campground was nearly 3 km inland, all of it uphill, and we were exhausted.  After spending a few minutes worrying that we might have to hike on we eventually found a very reasonably priced AirBnB named Villa M6 and quickly made a reservation for the evening.  

We soon discovered the reason for this location’s lower rates – the fact that it was some distance uphill from the beachfront. Regardless, we were grateful to have a place to stay, and so with sore legs, we slowly walked up, up, and up along near vertical streets through town.  Once we arrived we were warmly welcomed into what turned out to be a lovely place with a swimming pool, and our room had its own semi-private terrace!  

Searching for Dinosaurs 

Checked into our room and free of our backpacks, we took ice-cold showers and hand-washed our hiking clothes before heading back down to the beach.  Our goals for the evening were first to see if we could find food, and second, to locate the fossilized dinosaur footprints which the guidebook mentioned.  Reaching the Praia de Salema we slid off our sandals and walked barefoot along the stunning sandy beach.  After walking the length of the sand several times and searching the rocks at the base of the towering cliffs with little luck, an Indian family travelling the Algarve came up and asked if we were looking for the prints.  They said it had also taken them about half an hour to find the dinosaur markings and so were kind enough to show us where they were!  While it sounds silly, we both walked across the rocks placing our feet into the dinosaur footprints to fully experience this amazing piece of the historical record.   It seems so strange to me that something as ephemeral as a footprint can be fossilized and seen millions of years later! 

The footprints weren't the only interesting geological feature on the beach.  We also got a close-up view of the layers on the cliff face which we have spent the last two days walking along.  While hard to describe, the rocks were strongly red, yellow, grey, and even bluish.  Even stranger, the horizontal layers were broken by vertical strips of bright pink rock.  At that moment I would have loved to know more about geology and how to read the coastal rocks! 

After checking out the beach we visited the supermercado and bought some bread, cheese, fresh tomatoes, cucumbers and Portuguese wine for dinner, as well as some honey to go with the remainder of the bread for breakfast tomorrow.  Standing in the market we were amazed when we found a colony of House Martin nests, the mud cups just as striped as the nearby cliffs. It was fascinating to see how they constructed the nests and to think that they collected the mud from several different sources, thereby creating the artistic stripes.  Adding to this stunning sight was the fact that little heads kept poking out of most of the nests, and parents were frantically trying to keep everyone fed. 

Evening in Salema

With little else to do in Salema, we returned to our accommodations for the evening.  Here we enjoyed a lovely meal on the terrace of our B&B and met the two Italian ladies staying in the room beside us, who had walked from Porto Covo (where we hope to be in 10 days time). After reading the guidebook, which suggests tomorrow's stage is extremely difficult and not suitable for people with a fear of heights (that's me!), and receiving warnings from several other hikers, we were feeling a little apprehensive about the next stage of the Rota Vicentina.  

With the first two days on the Fisherman’s Trail and some 25 km of the route now completed, our bodies are feeling pretty good.  Today’s trek from Praia de Porto Mos on the edge of Lagos to Salema was a pleasant walk, though it included several surprisingly tough descents and ascents.  Perhaps these challenges were simply a reflection of our out-of-shape bodies.  With that said, both of us felt that the topography of the trail was tough with full backpacks.  I suspect that we will be sore tomorrow but the region is so naturally beautiful that I doubt the aches and pains will gain much attention from us.  The Algarve region is unlike anything either of us has ever trekked before and the newness of it all is exciting. 

As we go to sleep in our cozy beds we can hear a gale blowing outside.  The temperature has fallen considerably, but it isn't too cold, despite the wind coming in off the sea.  As with every hike, we will just have to see what tomorrow brings.

See you on the Trail!