Surf’s Up on the Rota Vicentina : Vila do Bispo to Carrapateira

Surf's Up on the Rota Vicentina

Morning on the Fisherman's Trail

This morning began with the familiar sounds of a rooster crowing.  He was joined a few minutes later by the soft but persistent 'hoo HOO hoo' calls of what were likely Rock Pigeons but could possibly have been something more interesting – but to be honest, at 6 AM I was more intent on enjoying my snuggly bed than racing outside to identify bird species.  With a short trek of only 16 km today from Vila do Bispo to Carrapateira we admittedly relaxed and took our time.  We made instant coffee in our room and ate croissants while sitting on the steps of the home we were being hosted in.  We watched as the sky shifted from its soft pinks into a beautiful blue and we could feel the warmth of the day already building.  

Having enjoyed our morning repast and coffee we slowly folded and stuffed our gear into our backpacks.  Ready to head out, we left a small note of thanks to our hosts and placed the key in our bedroom door. As we set out the owner’s wife came onto the front porch smiling, waving, and wishing us luck on the day’s journey.  

Our day’s hike began with us re-trekking the short 1 km back into Vila do Bispo where we found our way.  Following the smell of café com leite we soon found the door of an open cafe, which we promptly entered and where we enjoyed another coffee.  Here we watched, as several local Portuguese men stood around the bar imbibing shots of a dark red or amber alcoholic drink.  We have seen this routine before throughout Spain and Portugal while on Camino and have always been curious.  After talking to the bartender we discovered that it is called Medronho, and is also known as Auguardente de Medronhos (Fruit Brandy).  It is a traditional drink that is consumed in shot glass-sized portions and ranges in strength from 40 to 56% alcohol.  As a result, it is known as Portuguese fire water.   Apparently, it is made from the fruit of the Medronheiro Tree, or Strawberry Tree, which grows through the Alentejo and Algarve regions.  

Back to the Rota Vicentina

Now heavily caffeinated and ready to go, we set off to begin the day’s trek toward what our host last night termed a “nice forest” on the Rota Vicentina.  We climbed out of town on a hard-packed gravel road and passed several round historic mills before being led into ... a vast open field. Standing there, with only a few scattered trees on the horizon we were, not for the first time, reminded that the accepted Portuguese notion of forest seems to be a scattering of 2 or more trees in a single visible landscape which only periodically provides shade.  

Instead of woodlands, we made our way across open agricultural fields whose soil was cracked and dried out amid the region's blazing heat.  To be honest, it was hard to imagine anything growing here.  Yet despite these conditions, both agriculture and nature survived in this environment.  This fact was evidenced by the fact that we were surrounded by bird song and butterflies quickly bounding between the colourful flowers that lined the trailside, or diving into the tall sedge grasses around us.  Nature finds a way to thrive even in the toughest environments.  

Gum Rock Rose blooming along the Rota Vicentina

Colourful Eurasian Linnet in the Portuguese countryside

Pushing on, we soon began to encounter a great deal of signage indicating not only our direction along the Fisherman’s Trail, but also other routes, including the Historical Way and the Circular Path, as well as the GR11, E9, and PR5.  Having previously only given the trail markers passing notice, it was clearly now time to begin paying more attention to ensure that we were following our intended route.  Thankfully, this would turn out to be an easy task as the Fisherman’s Trail was regularly and clearly marked with its distinctive blue and green stripes.

European Stonechat in a conifer along the Fisherman's Trail

Corn Bunting in a pine along the Rota Vicentina, Portugal

The landscape gradually became hillier as we entered a region filled with a number of ravines.  Periodically, we caught glimpses of the ocean on the horizon as we navigated fields of burnt grass and small stands of waving eucalyptus. Here, according to the Rota Vicentina guidebook, the area is full of Common Nightingales, Cetti’s Warblers, White Storks, Western Jackdaws and Black Redstarts – each of which are purportedly easy to hear!  Unfortunately, while we kept our ears open in the hopes of sighting these species, we had no luck.  

Guarda National Republica 

Back on the Atlantic coast, we took our first break for the day with a view of the ocean.  While resting, we were passed by two Guarda National Republica police who both gave us a friendly nod and waved as they drove by.  Soon after, as we arrived at the top of a cliff we found the GNR parked on the road by the trailhead.  With one officer on the path and the other down below, we were uncertain whether we could … or should proceed.  A few minutes later the second officer returned marching a handcuffed man up the hill and to their car.   

Having waited as the police dealt with their matter, we could see that the trail we were following wove through the deep-sided valley and involved both a terrifying descent and the inevitable near-vertical ascent on the other side.  With the path cleared, we began our uncertain climb down.  We soon discovered that thanks to a series of switchbacks, the trail was easier than it had appeared from the top.  

Surfing Mecca and Birding Ravines 

With the excitement of the climb down behind us, we arrived at a tiny secluded sandy beach tucked in among the cliffs, which according to our maps was Praia da Pena Furada. The Atlantic shoreline of the Algarve is noted as having some of Europe’s most spectacular beaches, some of the world’s biggest waves, and some of the best surfing conditions to be found.  The year-round mild weather, natural beauty of the landscape, and diversity of bird life all combine to make this area stunning.  And today we had it all to ourselves!

One of the many European Stonechats we saw today

Delaying our departure and the climb it would require, we were rewarded by seeing a Common  Nightingale, a White Stork and our first Cetti’s Warbler!  Unfortunately, all good things (such as breaks on a hike) must come to an end and we continued on.  Hoping that the trail up would be less challenging than it looked, we soon discovered that it was exactly as steep as we had feared.  Adding to the challenge was the fact that it felt less like a pathway and more like a shoot of loose dirt and rocks, which made it hard to keep one's footing.  Regardless, we were both very grateful to be climbing this stretch rather than descending it.  

Back at the top of the ravine, we were both soaked in sweat.  Thankfully, there was a wonderful cool breeze coming off the coast which moderated the heat of the day as we began a stretch of road walking heading inland once again. 

Hike Your Own Hike

A short time later we began the next descent, which took us towards Plaza Murracao and also returned us to the coastline.  Here, between 10 and 11 AM, we encountered the daily herd of around 130 southbound hikers, who also looked like they were struggling in the heat and hills. By comparison, today we have only seen 2 other potential northbound trekkers.  Clearly, in heading north we have chosen the direction which is lesser travelled.  While it means we are essentially walking on our own, it has allowed us more uninterrupted time on the coast and in nature, which in turn facilitates being able to enjoy the birds and geology of the region.  

As we stood aside for the river of hikers to straggle past I was partially envious of their group camaraderie, but also dubious about the prospect of marching in single file in such a large group as they were.  As the saying goes, everyone hikes their own hike. 

Adventurous Fishermen at Praia do Amado

At the bottom of the next hill and on our next beach we took our next break.  Sitting in the shadows of the coastal cliffs we noticed four people out on the jagged rocks amid the crash of the huge waves.  Through the binoculars, we could tell that each of them was precariously perched amid the surf while fishing!   How these people got out to the spot they were on, and what fish they could possibly catch in such a precarious environment, is beyond our comprehension.  Adding to this improbable situation, each of the men fishing in the Atlantic appeared to be seniors in their 70s or 80s.  

As more southbound Rota Vicentina hikers began to arrive and sought to take a break in the shade of the cliffs, we again set off and made our ascent up off the beach.  Unfortunately, once at the top of this particular climb we had little time for celebration as the trail began to descend to the next stretch of golden sand that was the Praia do Amado almost immediately. 

Unlike the seclusion of the previous beaches today, here we were treated to the sight of huge waves crashing as well as a massive number of surfers from the surfing school.  Here dozens, if not hundreds of students bobbed in the water on their boards while others took lessons on the beach.  

Cliff Trekking and Cooling Off

Continuing on the narrow trail, we wove above the beach and hugged the edge of a hillside which felt somewhat unnerving.  For us, one of the great challenges of the Rota Vicentina is that at times the trail follows precariously along the very edge of the coast or along a steep hillside.  While these routes are scenic and beautiful, the fact is that for two people who are afraid of heights, at times it can also be an unsettling experience. However, I suppose if thru-hiking is about personal growth and pushing ourselves beyond our comfort zones, then such stretches are ultimately good for us.

The Fisherman’s Trail eventually returned to the beach and both of us were grateful to be on the ground and on a surface wider than our feet once again.  With the heat of the early afternoon becoming tough to trek in, we pushed our way along a short stretch of beach until we came to an open surfside restaurant and bar.  

Here we sat in the shade of a patio umbrella and each gratefully drank a large orange juice before also enjoying two iced teas.  Adding to this luxury was the fact that the local barman had been kind enough to serve our drinks in cold glasses filled with ice – it was perhaps the best 20 Euros I have ever spent in my life!

Ponta do Castela and Islamic Heritage 

Ready to go again, I unabashedly poured what remained of our ice into my Nalgene bottle and stepped out from the shade of our umbrella back onto the Rota Vicentina. After negotiating the busy beach parking lot, we soon arrived at an established wooden boardwalk at the tip of the cliffs and the site of a historic Arabic village.  

While today only a series of stone foundations remain, the 12-13th century village which once sat here is thought to have had at least 15 dwellings, including a terrace for fish and ovens to bake bread.  Archaeological excavations here have discovered ceramic, fishing nets, whalebone, and hooks and speculate that this location may have been a whaling community. 

Carrapateira Portugal

While fascinated by the region’s history, we were also uncomfortably aware of the still-rising heat of the day, as well as the lack of shade.  Nearby, the signs for the Rota Vicentina indicated that we were only 3 km from Carrapateira, a distance that should only take us about 30 minutes to cover.  Walking forth, we followed the route back inland along a dusty roadway amid agricultural fields.  Fifteen minutes later, having crested a small rise in the land, our goal for the day was revealed!

Excited, we marched into town, only to realize that we were a full 2 hours early for check-in at the hostel. As a result, we spent a brief period navigating the narrow streets of the historical town, photographing the beautiful mills, and visiting the small 16th-century white Church of Our Lady of the Conception overlooking the community. 

Having enjoyed our exploration of Carrapateira, but both warm and tired, we decided to find a local bar or a restaurant and see if it would be possible to get something cold to drink or even eat.  To our great surprise and good fortune, we found a welcoming establishment by the name of Alecrim. Here, along with our backpacks, we settled in, enjoyed a cold beer, and shared a large mango salad as well as a dessert of strawberries in cream.  It was without a doubt one of the most wonderful meals that I have ever enjoyed while hiking!

After our delicious meal we were able to check into the Hostel do Mar, where we quickly had a shower, hand-washed our clothes, and rested inside out of the sun.  Later in the evening – with the heat of the day beginning to lessen, we went back out to walk and sought to find a noted local birding area. Reflecting on the trek on the Fisherman’s Trail between Vila do Bispo to Carrapateira today, I think that we found it to be beautiful, but also somewhat of a tough and exhausting stretch – despite the brevity of the stage.

See you on the Trail!