Travelling to Faro Portugal : Adventure Begins

 “What good is livin' a life you've been given

If all you do is stand in one place?”

                                                                Lord Huron – Ends of the Earth 

Travelling to Faro Portugal 

Our journey from Canada to southern Portugal today would involve a 2-hour train ride from London to Toronto, then a short jaunt on the UP Express from downtown Toronto to Pearson International Airport, and finally a 7-hour, non-stop, overnight flight to Faro. 

Setting out this morning we sped through the countryside in southwestern Ontario and noticed that there were signs of spring everywhere.  Brand new green shoots were beginning to burst forth from the bare branches, replacing the faded greys and browns of winter with glowing green.  Carpets of tiny blue wildflowers were poking through the leaf litter on the forest floor. Although we couldn't hear it inside the train, the woods and fields were alive with the songs of frogs and birds.  So much activity and anticipation for the coming days of warmth and sunshine ... and yet. A thin veil of tiny snowflakes was gently falling, not staying on the ground, but there nonetheless - a reminder that we hadn't yet completely escaped the stubborn clutches of a Canadian winter. 

Flight to Portugal

When we reached the Toronto airport it was surprisingly busy, and the line for airport security took us over 3 hours to clear. Unintentionally, we did our part to help further slow things down for everyone else. As has increasingly happened over the past few years, Sean's camera gear needed to be taken apart, swabbed and tested.  When all of this was done, the various lenses and camera bodies promptly set off the alarm for chemical substances.  This led to further questioning, scanning, and probing by a group of very diligent security personnel before Sean and his cameras were finally cleared to proceed.  Though we were originally set to be 2 hours early to our flight, by the time all was done we arrived at the plane as they were making their final calls for our gate.  In the end, as the last people to board the flight, we felt extremely grateful that despite everything we were on our way.

Our plane was full, and we didn't manage to get any sleep, but we enjoyed watching the sky slowly grow light over the vast ocean below us.  Then, after a quarter of a day in the air, we suddenly spotted huge white waves breaking along the sandy crescents of Portugal's beautiful beaches. In between, tall red cliffs rose up, separating the bright blue sea from the rolling green hills laid out like the folds of a wrinkled blanket. On the final approach, we could see the tall white buildings of Faro clustered below, forming a much larger city than we had imagined it would be.  

The terminal in Faro was small and very easy to navigate, being comparable to the Canadian airports in Hamilton (ON), London (ON), Abbotsford (BC), or Saint John's (NL).  As we soon discovered, the Algarve region of Portugal is a very popular vacation destination for Europeans, as well as for surfers from around the world.  It was absolutely packed with people when we arrived, and surprisingly most of our fellow travelers were conversing excitedly in English.   

Apparently, since the 1960s when the Faro airport was opened tourism quickly became the region’s main industry which is understandable given the climate and long empty beaches throughout the region. As a result, many of the businesses here cater to tourists.   

Humility and Awareness

After walking through the terminal we got in line for the usual security screening and passport check to enter the European Union.  Here we experienced a moment of humility when a young lady and her partner, who were ahead of us in line at Customs, were pulled aside and questioned extensively on why they were entering the country, and specifically when they intended to leave.  The couple were put against a wall and were bombarded with questions by security officials : “Why are you here?”, “Why don’t you have a return ticket”, and “Where are you staying?”.  Sadly, and much like ourselves, they struggled with the Portuguese language and were not given a chance to answer one question before another was asked.  Within minutes, both were shaking and in tears.  Though it took us a moment, we soon realized that the young couple were travelling on Ukrainian passports. 

As we got our documents stamped the Portuguese official glanced over at the scene and stoically commented in clear English “It is a sad situation, many young people are fleeing but where to go? No easy solutions.”   As we set out onto an extended hike across Portugal and Spain, the response to two young people who by all appearances should be happily enjoying their teenage years instead of being grilled by officials, was a stark reminder of the realities of the ongoing Ukranian-Russian war.   In addition, it was a very strong reminder that although we were surrounded by a happy and loud throng of holidaymakers, mixed with Portuguese people overjoyed to return home, not everyone may have been so carefree or privileged.  We felt very grateful to be here, and silently sent a prayer for the Ukrainian couple that they could find calm and safety in this challenging world. 

Tourism Information and Birdwatching Advice

Once through Customs, we were pleased to find a Vodafone store in the airport concourse where we could get a Portuguese SIM card for the phone. We have been warned that SIM card prices may be higher in the airport than elsewhere, but we didn't find this to be the case here. 

We were also thrilled to find a very enthusiastic birder at the Algarve Tourism office in the airport.  He sold us a paper map of the Rota Vicentina, a guidebook for Birding the Algarve, and gave us great advice when we asked about good bird-watching opportunities in the area.  The Algarve region is famous for its flowers, butterflies, and birds and it is working very hard to promote ecotourism and nature conservation.  Multiple options for bird-watching tours on foot and by boat are available for tourists, and guides to good birding trails and locations in the area are readily available everywhere. 

Part of the appeal of hiking the Rota Vicentina for us was that it is promoted for its natural beauty.  Beyond simply assuming that trekking the Fisherman’s Trail will connect the walkers with nature, descriptions of the birds, flowers, sea creatures, and geology are provided for hikers along a route that is promoted as a way to experience the 'other Algarve.' It is a highly diverse region, which has over 360 bird species.  The man at the tourism office was very excited that we were here to bird, and very clearly described how to get to the nearby Ludo Hiking Trail, which is just 3 km from the airport, and offers great opportunities to spot new bird species. 

Ludo Trail and Birds of Algarve

Since it was only 10 am, and we couldn't check in to our hostel until 2 pm, we decided to walk and bird the Ludo Trail before making our way downtown.  The first challenge in doing so was leaving the area of the airport on foot, which is rarely easy.  For anyone who has visited Toronto’s Pearson International Airport, or Paris’ Charles de Gaulle International Airport, you are aware that not only are these facilities huge, but that the road systems around them are usually complicated loops of highways and fast traffic zones.  They are not the sort of places that one walks.  Yet, to get to the Ludo Trail we not only had to navigate out of the airport but then hike around it.  Nonetheless, this was the plan.

As soon as we stepped outside the airport we realized we were in a different world.  The sky was a clear, bright blue, the sun was blazing down, and it was 33°C! Huge palm trees swayed slightly in a gentle breeze, and bright orange and pink flowers adorned the shrubs.  A line of neatly shaped fruit trees lined the walkway, their branches heavy with oranges and lemons.  We had entered a world of warmth, colour, light and the smell of salty sea air! 

Whimbrel taking flight over the Ria Formosa.

Dunlin foraging at low tide, Ludo Hiking Trail

We followed the paved cycling lane down the side of a relatively quiet two-lane road that skirted around the airport.  Soon the pine trees gave way, the landscape opened up, and we found ourselves at the entrance to the trail, which stretched out into the Ria Formosa.  This estuary-like expanse of mud flats is located between the coast and a long off-shore sand bar where the famous Faro beach was located.  Excitingly, it is part of a 60 km long wetland that is one of the most important and biologically diverse in Portugal. 

Whimbrel at the water's edge, Faro, Portugal

White Stork welcoming us to Portugal's Algarve

The trailhead was clearly marked with a sign and a wooden gate bordered by dense, thorny, shrubs.  The bushes were rustling feebly, and a pair of cyclists was peering into them with great concern.  It turned out the greenery masked a steep drop, and a third cyclist had accidentally fallen over the edge into the thorns below.  Sean and another man who stopped to help eventually managed to drag the man up the embankment.  He emerged bleeding badly, slightly disoriented, and very embarrassed.  We donated several of our bandaids to cover the worst of his cuts and bruises, but despite his protests, it was clear he needed further help.  Since he firmly refused any more assistance and insisted we continue on, we wished him good luck and went on our way. 

Little Egret patiently stalking fish in the Ria Formosa

Black-winged Stilt in the Ria Formosa Estuary

The wide, flat, crushed stone dust trail made an almost blindingly bright line out into the estuary.  Its raised bed was bordered by huge cacti, red and green succulents covered in bright yellow blossoms, and a whole host of other grasses and tiny wildflowers that were blooming purple, pink, and white.  Mixed into this riot of colour were many plants and shrubs with tough, leathery, drought-resistant leaves, as well as smaller bushes with the silvery grey foliage of sage bushes.  

Eurasian Coot paddling across the estuary

Sardinian Warbler checking us out on the Ludo Hiking Trail

Common Ringed Plover foraging on the mudflats near Faro

Beyond the trail, the mud flats extended in both directions, broken by small streams and patches of tidal water and interspersed with large patches of green grasses and reeds.  To our delight, the tide was out, and the exposed mud flats were full of birds!  In the first few minutes alone we had spotted nearly a dozen species, including dozens of Whimbrels, Dunlin, and Common Ringed Plovers foraging on the exposed mud flats, several Black-winged Stilts, Little Egrets, and Grey Herons wading through the shallows waters, and multiple White Storks and Little Terns flying past overhead.  It wasn't long before Eurasian Coots, Sanderlings, Kentish Plovers, and Ruddy Turnstones joined our list.

A huge highlight of the Ludo Trail was seeing Greater Flamingos for the first time in the wild!

Greater Flamingos in the Ria Formosa, Faro, Portugal

As we very slowly progressed out into the wetland, we noticed signs of human foraging as well.  Quite a few people were out digging for shellfish in the mud, filling buckets and sacs as they went.  We also noticed sections of the wetland that had been dredged and dyked to create rectangular salt flats.  In some, the huge patches of white sea salt were drying in the hot sunshine.  In others, a shallow layer of water still stood, and it was here we spotted a group of Greater Flamingos foraging!  This was the first time we'd seen these huge, slightly comical-looking pink birds outside of the zoo, and we were extremely excited! 

West African Fiddler Crab in the Ria Formosa, Portugal

As we scanned the marshes, we soon saw one of the main attractions for the birds. Crabs! Although easy to overlook from a distance, upon closer examination we realized the mud flats were absolutely swarming with West African Fiddler Crabs.  Rounded holes in the mud marked their burrows, and outside each one a crab was waiting.  On the males, one front leg was enlarged into a huge claw, which they waved rhythmically at each other and at passing females.  It looked like the large groups were dancing – and just like any nightclub one might enter, the males were doing their level best to show off and wave their large bits around.

Perhaps the only unnerving part of trekking this short trail was that it was on the edge of the airport and so large planes were regularly taking off and landing “just” over our heads.  Fascinatingly, this aerial activity never seemed to faze the local bird population who continued to forage seemingly without care. 

Chameleons, Spoonbills, and Citizen Science

We really enjoyed our walk, but by noon it had grown very hot, and there wasn't much shade along the Ludo Trail.  We found a well-placed bench under a eucalyptus tree and took a break.  Looking at the map, we noticed we could follow the path out to a neighbourhood, and then pick up a road out onto the beach on the sandbar.  It turned out to be a very pleasant, if somewhat hot walk, and we even managed to stop for a cold ice sumo de laranja along the way. 

When we approached the beach, we came to a wide, wooden pedestrian boardwalk.  To our delight, we spotted a sign indicating we were in chameleon territory.  In fact, there was a Citizen Science project going on in the Algarve region where people were encouraged to report their sightings of chameleons!  

We kept a sharp lookout for any of these adorably cute little lizards but sadly had no luck.  We did however spot a pair of Eurasian Spoonbills foraging in the mud flats, as well as a Grey Heron which was the second huge highlight of the afternoon! 

Eurasian Spoonbill near Praia de Faro, Portugal

Super excited for our first sighting of an Eurasian Spoonbill!

The road beside us was busy with a constant stream of cars heading towards the beach.  We hadn't realized how developed the sand bar was - but it had a paved street lined with bars, surf shops, homes, hotels, beach houses, restaurants, and cafés.  The heat and jet lag was beginning to catch up with us, so we stepped inside a restaurant with a shaded patio and had a cheese sandwich and much-needed cold drink.  Again, everyone around us spoke English, and the menu was written in both Portuguese and English. 

White Stork taking flight at the Praia de Faro, Portugal

After a short and restorative break, we headed back out into the bright sunshine and climbed up onto the wooden boardwalk along the beach.  The golden sand was hot and packed with sunbathers, and a crowd of surfers were riding the bright blue waves crashing into the beach.  We enjoyed the breeze at the top of the dunes for a few minutes before again hoisting our packs back on and continuing down the road. 

A short walk past white-painted hostels, beach houses, surf stores and restaurants with bright blue, red, and yellow trim brought us to the municipal campground.  We had considered camping there for the night but decided in favour of a hostel room to get a better night’s sleep after the long flight.  We were glad we did, because there was only one lone tree in the middle of the campground, and the rest was scorching in the hot afternoon sun.  

Ruddy Turnstone in the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa, Portugal

Eventually, we came to a wooden dock sticking out into the water with a sign indicating it was the ferry stop.  Since there was a ferry scheduled to depart in about half an hour, we decided to take it across the waterway into downtown Faro.  There was a lot of boat traffic on the water, and while we waited we watched a group of windsurfers learning to sail.  Shortly afterwards a small group of kayakers paddled enthusiastically past.  Small watercraft patiently wove through the cluster of people playing in the warm blue water. 

Parque Natural da Ria Formosa 

When the ferry arrived it turned out to be an open-deck pontoon boat, and it soon filled up with slightly sunburnt beachgoers.  We spotted quite a few birds in the Ria Formosa during the 30-minute ride back to the mainland.  However the speed of the ferry – while fun - did not really facilitate being able to photograph or identify them.  

The ferry did however give us a wonderful tour of the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa and the natural beauty to be found amid its lagoons, marshes, salt pans, long beaches and inviting sandbanks which we wove past on our way to Faro.  The Parque Natural da Ria Formosa was created in 1987 to protect the coastline which was under threat from rampant tourism development, pollution and sand extraction.  It spans some 60 km along the shore from Tavira to Ancao and includes a massive area of marshes, saltpans, tidal pools and water channels that are sheltered from the open sea by a number of barrier islands such as the one that we had just departed. 

Great Cormorante drying off in the sun

Little Egret strutting its stuff near Faro, Portugal

Whimbrel in the mudflats in the Ria Formosa in the Algarve

The Ria Formosa Park is considered one of the top natural wonders of Portugal.  As an ecosystem, the estuary of the Rio Formosa supports a rich and complex range of aquatic and avian species.   As a result, it is one of the most important wetlands and birding habitats in the nation, with more than 300 species including waterbirds and waders having been reported here in recent years.  In addition, this national park is home to chameleons, otters, and snakes as well as oysters, clams, fish and seahorse populations. 

Overall, I think it is fair to say that our hike and this ferry ride were probably the nicest and most interesting trips we'd ever had in getting from an airport into town. 

Exploring Faro Portugal

Far too soon our ferry pulled up to the shoreline adjacent to the local railway line and the walled historic Old Town quarter of Faro.  

White Storks nesting atop a building in Faro

This city has a long history, beginning in the 4th century BC.  Between the 2nd and 8th centuries, the settlement was controlled by the Romans, the Byzantines, and then the Visigoths, and was known as Ossonoba.  In 713 it was conquered by the Moors, and it continued to grow as an economic and administrative center for the region.  The walls were fortified in the 9th century under Moorish rule as one of the most important towns on the Iberian Peninsula.  In the years 1147 and later in 1217, during the Second and Fifth Crusades, the settlement was burned.   By 1249, with the expulsion of the Moors, Faro became known as Santa Maria de Faaram, and it was incorporated into Portugal by King Afonso III. 

In the centuries that followed, during the Portuguese Age of Discovery, the region excelled and became a city in 1540.  Unfortunately in 1597, following the Battle and capture of Cadiz by English forces, a naval fleet lead by Robert Devereux, the 2nd Earl of Essex, destroyed and pillaged the city.  Despite these attacks, Faro continued to expand until 1755 when most of the coastal region, including the administrative centre of Lagos was decimated by the Great Lisbon earthquake and the resulting tsunamis.   Owing to the natural barrier of the Ria Formosa sand banks, Faro was largely protected, minimizing the damage to the city and leading it to become the administrative centre of the Algarve.  As we would soon see, traces of its long and complicated history could still be found throughout Faro. 

Leaving the waterway we walked into the old town through one of the rounded archways in the tall, thick, stone walls, and followed the polished white cobblestone streets.  Eventually, we found our accommodations for the night, the Hostellicious Hostel, where we received a very warm welcome from the staff. After gratefully dropping off our packs we took a much-anticipated shower and changed our clothes before heading back out for a little more exploring. 

Historic Faro

After refreshing ourselves, we made our way back into the old quarter of Faro through the Acro da Vila, and soon found ourselves in the historic main square looking up at the white facade of the Se Catedral of Faro, also known as the Igreja de Santa Maria.  The building seems to have a complicated and interesting history.  At one time, a Roman temple was likely located at this spot.  A Visigoth church was then constructed on the site, which was subsequently adapted to serve as a mosque during the period of Arab rule, and then readapted to be a Christian temple after the re-conquest of 1240. Later it was renovated after a fire in 1596, and extensively repaired after the devastating earthquakes of 1722 and 1755.  As a result, the cathedral is a mixture of architectural styles which even includes an 18th century organ with Chinese motifs.   

After purchasing tickets, we visited the church, walked through the museum upstairs, took in the slightly unsettling chapel of bones, and climbed the tower on an incredibly narrow and steep winding staircase.  The view from the top over the government buildings in the square below us, the red roofs and white buildings of Faro, and the sparkling blue ocean beyond was amazing.  Even from that height, we could see the oranges on the trees lining the streets below, and the splashes of pink and yellow from the blooming vines. 

By the time we had climbed back down again, it was getting late, and both our energy and the light were beginning to fade.  We found a tiny restaurant with a shaded outdoor patio tucked into what we thought was a quiet alleyway.  We were the first to arrive, but as we sat there in the soft evening light one table after another began to fill up.  We were surrounded by the warm evening air, the smells of cooking fish and vegetables, and the sounds of large flocks of House Martins and Barn Swallows wheeling and diving overhead.  

Unlike North American cities, where the roar of traffic, horns, and sirens provides the background noise, the sounds of Faro were those of people and birds.  It was very peaceful. It was just what we had hoped for.  

Algarve Culture 

By the time we had finished eating a delicious plate of quinoa and veggies, we were extremely tired.  However, on the way back to the hostel we noticed large groups of students gathering around town.  They were all dressed in the blue and white outfits of traditional Galician folk singers, and wearing their blankets covered in colourful crests earned during events where they had sung.  

We couldn't resist following the crowds back to the central square, where we were amazed to see several hundred students gathered.  They were mostly sitting or standing in different groups, and every now and again one group would break into a lively song or a chant.  Another group would answer, and they would proceed to try to 'out sing' each other.  In one corner a group of girls was shouting at full volume at a group of boys, dancing forward in synchronized a line to push the others back.  The boys would then answer in unison, equally vigorously, “pushing” the girls' group back again.  Such an effective and creative way to burn off teenage angst and energy! 

Most interestingly, it looked like new students were being initiated into each group in an elaborate ceremony.  The initiate knelt on the cobblestones and was wrapped tightly in their blanket, their arms pinned down at their sides.  They were then given sips of wine from multiple bottles offered by the other members of their group.  When it was somehow determined that enough alcohol had been drunk, the remainder of the bottles were drained over the head and shoulders of the initiate until they were thoroughly soaked. Next, their blanket was laid on the cobblestones, several bottles of champagne were emptied onto it, and the members of the group marched back and forth across it several times.  The slightly drunk, wet initiate then had to roll back and forth across the blanket multiple times.  Once this ceremony was complete there was great celebrating and the new member was welcomed into the group and photos were taken of everyone.  We'd never seen anything like it!  

It was clear the crowd was gearing up for a night of singing and music, but although we would have loved to stay, we were simply too tired having been awake, flying and exploring for more than 30 hours at this point.  When we returned to the hostel we learned that tonight was the beginning of Semana Academica do Algarve.  This is a weeklong celebration by university students, where music is played all night, both by local groups and international stars.  It is one of the main festivals in the region. 

Today was extremely long, but filled with so many wonderful things, from birds to delicious food, to music.  In short, it was a lovely way to begin a new adventure.

See you on the Trail!